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Serving: Oklahoma City, Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

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Flood Zones

February 1, 2017/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance, Spring Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

In Oklahoma City or wherever you live in the country, it will pay off to check with local authorities to determine if your home is in a flood-risk zone. If it is, check with local building officials. Higher standards than those set by national agencies have been adopted by many communities.

The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) and the National Flood Insurance Program have established and defined five major flood-risk zones and created special flood-resistance requirements for each. For a flood map, visit http://www.nachi.org/go/femamaps.

As home inspectors in Oklahoma we often run into grading issues on our home inspections. Improperly designed grading and drainage may aggravate flood hazards to buildings and cause runoff, soil erosion and sedimentation in the zones of lower flood risk, according to the Interflood Zone and the Non-Regulated Flood Plain. In these locations, local agencies may regulate building elevations above street or sewer levels. In the next higher risk zones, the Special Flood Hazard Areas and the Non-Velocity Coastal Flood Areas (both Zone A), the elevation of the lowest floor and its structural members above the base flood elevation is required. In the zone of highest flood risk, the Coastal High Hazard Areas (Velocity Zone, Zone V), additional structural requirements apply

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving: Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

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#flood #floodzone #homeruninspections #homeinspectors #homeinspectorokc #homeinspectornearme #inspectionservices #realestateagent #realestateinvestment #OKCRealEstate #oklahomahomeinspector #homeinspectornormanok

Doors Maintenance

January 20, 2017/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by sherineprice

Doors and Their Maintenance

Interior Doors: Monitor the condition of your home’s doors and door frames, including the interior of entrance doors and storm doors. Check their hardware for finish, wear, and proper functioning. Sticking doors or out-of-square frames may indicate house settlement, which is normal.

Exterior Doors: Exterior doors should be checked often for their condition, operation, and the functionality of their hardware. Door types include hinged, and single and double doors made of wood, steel, aluminum, and plastic with and without glazing. Monitor wood and plastic doors that are not protected from the weather. These doors should be rated for exterior use. Some homes use glass-framed doors of fixed and operable panels that have wood, vinyl-covered wood, and aluminum frames. Check the tracks of these sliding doors for dents, breaks and straightness.

Doors should also be monitored for the exterior condition of their frames and sills. Check doors that are not protected from the weather for the presence of essential flashing at the head. Over time, the interior condition and hardware of exterior doors can wear out or fail.

Garage Doors: Garage doors should be monitored for operation, weathertightness, overall condition, and fit. Garage doors are typically made of wood, hardboard on a wood frame, steel, fiberglass on a steel frame, and aluminum. Garage doors come with glazed panes in a wide variety of styles. Wood and hardboard can rot, hardboard can crack and split, steel can rust, fiberglass can deteriorate from ultraviolet light, and aluminum can dent.

Garage doors with motors should be periodically tested using each of the operators on the system, such as key-lock switch or combination lock keypad, where control must be accessible on the exterior remote electrical switch, radio signal switch, or photo-electric control switch. Check the operation for smoothness, quietness, speed of operation, and safety. Check for the presence and proper operation of the door safety-reversing device. Look at the exposed parts of the installation for loose connections, rust, and bent or damaged pieces.

#doormaintenance #garagedoormaintenance

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

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Garage Door Maintenance

January 9, 2017/0 Comments/in Blog, On-Going Home Maintenance, Winter Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Hinge Lubrication

During inclement weather especially, we tend to use our home’s vehicle doors more than we use our front doors. Most home’s front doors are pretty simple. A typical front door these days is metal clad with a wood interior. It swings on three hinges and locks with a locking handle and a dead bolt lock. Although all these parts need occasional attention, a decade can go by before you notice a problem. The solution is usually a lubricant or replacement of a relatively inexpensive lock mechanism.

Garage door maintenance is not so simple, and when it comes to repairs, they can be quite costly. As with many systems within a home, regular maintenance is the most affordable way to manage home costs. Neglected rollers can bind during operation causing extensive and expensive damage to not only the door but the door opener. And, this usually happens at the most inopportune time.

So next time you are making the rounds around your home on the weekend taking care of the “honey do” list, take a few minutes to apply some silicone lubricant to your garage vehicle door. I promise it will be time well spent. Here are a few steps to follow to get the job done without creating more work or problems:

Pick up some silicone spray lubricant the next time you are at a store with a hardware section. Pick up a cheap set of safety glasses if you do not have a pair already (it never hurts to have a couple).
Move your vehicles out of the garage and at least five feet away to avoid any over spray on your paint job.
Make sure you are not wearing nice clothes or your favorite concert t-shirt. Accidents do happen.
Have a disposable rag or roll of paper towels handy to clean up any overage spray.
With your safety glasses in place and the garage door down, attach the spray tube to the nozzle of the can and proceed to spray about a half circle of lubricant on each roller wheel in the tracks.
Spray a small amount in each visible hinge between each door section.
If you can, spray a line of lubricant across the usually black torsion spring above the garage door. (This may require using a small step ladder).
If your door opener has a chain, spray along the chain for a few feet. If you notice the track below the chain is dry or rusted, add a little along there for the guide as your door is lifting.
Lastly, raise and lower your door a few times to move the lubricant around each moving part.

There you have it! You probably just saved yourself $500 in repairs this year. Just add a reminder on your phone for next January and you can repeat the savings.

#homemaintenance #garagedoor #vehicledoo

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

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Window Maintenance

January 5, 2017/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Energy Efficiency, On-Going Home Maintenance, Winter Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Window Maintenance

Winter is a great time to give some attention to your windows maintenance. In the long run it will save you time and money. Lubricating the track and the frame where the sash slides ensures that the window functions properly. Along with your garage vehicle door hinges, this should be part of your yearly maintenance. Lubricating your windows, whether they are sliders, casements, or tilt-in single or double hung, is a straightforward task that most homeowners can accomplish. The following are steps you can take to get the job done in no time:

Mix a simple solution of 1.5 cups of vinegar, 1 tsp of baby shampoo into about a gallon of hot water in a portable plastic container.
Have a vacuum cleaner of some sort ready to remove any debris that has accumulated over time.
Lift the window sash as you usually do to open the window. If your windows have this feature, tilt single- and double-hung windows inward, or slide casement windows open to allow you better access to the tracks and the inner liner or frame where the sash slides open and closed.
inspect the screen for any damage and repair as necessary
utilize a nice window cleaning solution and rag to clean the window surface that is usually protected by the screen.
Wipe the tracks and window frame with a dry cloth to remove loose dust, dirt and debris or use a vacuum if there is a lot of debris.
Use a damp cloth dipped in the solution to clean away any mildew, mold, or heavy dirt buildup.
Rinse with clean water and dry with a clean cloth or paper towel.
Use a spray silicone lubricant to spray onto a dry rag or cloth. Wipe the lubricant onto the window’s track and along the jamb liner where the sash slides open and closed. Try and keep from spraying lubricant directly onto the vinyl window. It can leave a permanent mark that you cannot remove. Spraying directly onto the vinyl can also leave a greasy mess that is difficult to clean and ironically attracts more dirt.
Return the window sash to its original position. If you used the tilt out feature you will have to tilt it back in before closing the window. Open and close the window several times to distribute the lubricant evenly.

Summary

That’s it! This is a good time to inspect the top and bottom window pane for evidence of a damaged thermal seal. I assure you that this is time and energy well-spent. Not only will this allow you to easily open windows to allow fresh air in and save money on air conditioning costs, it will help to ensure that when the time comes to sell your home, windows won’t show up as a defect in your buyer’s Home Inspection Report.

#windows #windowcleaning #homemaintenance #windowmaintenance #windowlubricatin

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

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Bathroom Ventilation Systems

December 15, 2016/1 Comment/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by sherineprice

The Bathroom Ventilation System
Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and damp air to the home’s exterior. A typical system consists of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms, including those with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates.

Fan Function

The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:

Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch.
A timer switch may be mounted on the wall.
A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity.

It’s not always easy to tell whether the bathroom vent fan is operating as it should. Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well.

Bathroom ventilation fans should be periodically checked for dust buildup, which can impede air flow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are also attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Homeowners should regularly clean dirty fan covers to prevent this kind of buildup.

Defects

The following conditions indicate insufficient ventilation in the bathroom:

Stains on the bathroom walls and/or ceiling
Corrosion of metal parts of the vent system
Visible mold on the walls and/or ceiling
Peeling paint or wallpaper
Frost on the interior of the bathroom window
High indoor humidity
Improper duct termination

Duct Termination

The most common defect related to the bathroom’s ventilation system is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home’s exterior.

The most common improper terminations locations are:

Mid-level in the attic; these are easy to spot.
Beneath the insulation in the attic. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed; and under attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home’s exterior.

Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom, so the homeowner or inspector may have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes, poorly installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.

Ducts that leak or terminate in the attic can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moisture-laden air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation and other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health and/or decay problems from mold, or damage to building materials, such as drywall. Moisture buildup also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Mold growth is another undesirable consequence of improperly vented damp air. Even though mold growth may take place primarily in the attic and basement/crawlspace, mold spores can be sucked into the living area of a home by low air pressure, which is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens, and from clothes dryers and heating equipment.

Improper Ventilation

Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that damp air is properly exhausted.

Ventilation ducts must:

Terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope
Contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry
Be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder
Be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts encourage condensation
Protrude at least several inches from the roof
Be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements
Be installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations

The following tips are also helpful. Ventilation ducts should:

- Be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop.
- Have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.
- Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors to the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues for family members.

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Drainage Problems

November 3, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Soil Drainage

One of the first things I check on a home inspection is the lot slope around the home. As a home buyer, drainage problems should be one of the first things you look for as well.

Making sure that your property is sloped to allow proper drainage can mean the difference between a trouble-free rainy season and a flooded basement a few times a year. Unwanted moisture intrusion—even at a level not serious enough to cause interior flooding—can create insidious problems that will be difficult to completely eliminate, such as weakened structural elements, mold growth, and other damage and health hazards.

Most problems with moisture in basements and crawlspaces are caused by poor site drainage. The ground should slope away from window wells, exterior basement stairs, and other means of egress. The bottom of each of these areas should be sloped to a drain. Each drain should have piping that connects it to a storm water drainage system (if there is one) or that drains to either a discharge at a lower grade or into a sump pit that collects and discharges the water away from the building.

Rain

During the next heavy rainstorm without lightning, grab an umbrella and go outside. Walk around your house and look around at the roof and property. A rainstorm is the perfect time to see how the roof, downspouts and grading are performing. Observe the drainage patterns of your entire property, as well as the property of your neighbor. The ground around your house should slope away from all sides. Downspouts, surface gutters and drains should be directing water away from the foundation.

One important maintenance task is to monitor and maintain the drains and piping. Drains and piping should be open and clear of leaves, earth and debris.

House on a Hillside

Where a building is situated on a hillside, it is more difficult to slope the ground away from the building on all sides. On the high-ground side of the building, the slope of the ground toward the building could be interrupted by a surface drainage system that collects and disposes of rainwater runoff. Swales can be used to direct surface water away from the foundation. There are two general types of surface drainage systems: an open system, consisting of a swale (often referred to as a ditch), sometimes with a culvert at its end to collect and channel water away; and a closed system, consisting of gutters with catch basins.

Solutions

If you discover any issues with the way water drains around and away from your home, you can contact a landscaping professional for advise. Contacting a guttering specialist may be in order as well. As with most repair issues I come across as a home inspector, ignoring the problem is only going to cost you more in the long run. Water is arguably your homes greatest enemy so the next time it rains, pay attention to how effectively your abode takes the enemy away.

Home Run Inspections, LLC

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Florida: 850-203-3239

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Landscaping

October 26, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Landscaping

One of my first task on a home inspection is to inspect the roof and the exterior of the home. Consequently, I often have to mention overhanging tree limbs, shrubs, or another aspect of the landscape rubbing up against the exterior of the home as a needed repair.

Well-maintained landscaping and other improvements are important for the enjoyment of a healthy and durable property.

Plants, Trees & Shrubs

Check the location and condition of all trees and shrubbery. Those that are overgrown should be pruned or trimmed. Where trees or bushes have overgrown, complete removal may be necessary. Trees need to be trimmed. Overhanging branches should not interfere with a chimney’s draft, be too close to utility wires, or deposit leaves and twigs on the roof or inside gutters and drains. Trees and shrubbery that are very close to exterior walls or roofs can cause damage. They can make it difficult to perform homeowner maintenance, inspections and repairs. Branches around the perimeter of the house should be pruned back. Tree roots under concrete walks can cause damage. Roots are usually exposed near the surface and can be cut back. Tree roots can cause a home’s foundation to crack by pushing against it from the outside. If you have any of these issues, consider hiring an arborist. An arborist is a specialist in the cultivation and care of trees and shrubs, including tree surgery, the diagnosis, treatment, and prevention of tree diseases, and the control of pests.

Find a certified arborist in the U.S. at http://www.nachi.org/go/arborists and http://www.nachi.org/go/caforests in Canada

Home Run Inspections, LLC

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Florida: 850-203-3239

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Fall Home Maintenance

September 29, 2016/0 Comments/in Autumn Home Maintenance, Blog, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

When Fall arrives its time once again for Fall Home Maintenance. Here is a quick list to get you started:

Have a Licensed HVAC Pro Service Heating System
Replace HVAC Filter
Protect Exposed Plumbing from Freezing Temperatures
Run Gas-powered Lawn Equipment until the Fuel is Gone
Test Emergency Generator
Have a Certified Chimney Sweep Inspect & Clean Flues & Check Fireplace Dampers
Remove Bird Nests from Chimney Flues & Outdoor Electrical Fixtures
Seal Air Leaks
Clean Gutters
Inspect Roof
Inspect Gas Space Heaters
Set Up a Humidifier
Repair Walkways, Seal Cracks
Check Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Detectors
Check Fire Extinguishers & Fire Escape Plan
General Clean-Up
Prep Lawn
Touch Up Exterior Paint
Clean Carpeting

Remember to take a moment before starting machinery or climbing a ladder to think about safety. A few hours of preparation can save you and your family some misery this winter, not to mention some money

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

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Upgrading 2-Prong Outlets

August 19, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Upgrading

Two prong receptacles, often found by an inspector in an older home, that are connected to two-wire cables, do not have the ground wires, which protect people and electrical devices in case of a ground fault. Upgrading 2-Prong Outlets to a new three-prong or GFCI receptacle in the same receptacle box without any rewiring is possible as long as the box itself is grounded.

Metal boxes attached to armored, or BX cable, which is a type of wiring commonly found in old homes, are typically found to be properly grounded. The armored or BX cable’s flexible metal jacket serves the same purpose as a dedicated ground wire.

If the box is not grounded, a GFCI can be installed or an electrician can be hired to fix the wiring.

GFCI-Ground Fault Circuit Interruption

The image to the right is a GFCI that was installed to replace the old, 2-prong ungrounded wall receptacle in an older home. This GFCI must be labeled as a GFCI without an equipment ground.

Simply replacing an older 2-prong outlet with a 3-prong outlet can be hazardous, because the receptacle will appear to be functional with a ground, but in fact there isn’t one. If someone were to plug a faulty 3-prong device into that “fake” grounded receptacle, a shock hazard is very likely. Electricity moving through the device casing would create an energized surface from which a person could be electrocuted.

Another problem with replacing ungrounded 2-prong receptacles with 3-prong one is in relation to surge-protection device, which relies on a solid ground to route any transient activity. The ungrounded receptacle would not be able to protect the device from a surge.

It is permissible to replace a 2-prong ungrounded outlet with a 3-prong GFCI outlet. But, it must be labeled as “GFCI Protected Outlet, No Equipment Ground.” Even though there is not a grounding conductor, there is still some protection against shock provided by the GFCI.

Play it Safe

The bottom line is, play it safe. To do electrical receptacle upgrades in a manner that will provide the most protection to the inhabitants of the home, have a licensed electrician who has the proper equipment and knowledge to do it right make the upgrades.

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

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