Improper Installation

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Stairs Maintenance

August 31, 2022/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by sherineprice

Stairs Maintenance

Structural Integrity: All stairs must be kept structurally sound. Don’t forget to examine the basement stairs. Check the area where they meet the floor and where they are attached to the floor joists above.

Stair Width and Clearance: Stairways should have a minimum headroom of 6 feet and 8 inches, and width of 3 feet.

Treads and Risers: The riser of a stair is the height of the step. The tread is the step’s depth. Riser heights and tread depths should be as uniform as possible. All treads should be level and secure. As a guide, stairs in new homes must have a maximum riser height of 7-3/4 inches and a minimum tread depth of 10 inches. The maximum difference in height for risers and depth for treads should not exceed 3/8-inch.

Handrails and Guardrails: You can check a railing’s stability and its fastenings by shaking it vigorously. Handrails are normally required to be 34 to 38 inches above the stair nosing on at least one side of all stairways having three or more risers. Guardrails are required on open sides of stairways and should have intermediate rails that do not allow the passage of a sphere 4 inches in diameter.

Lighting: All interior and exterior stairways should have a means to illuminate the stairs, including landings and treads. Interior stairways should have a light located at each landing, except where a light is installed directly over each stairway section. Public stair and hallway lights in multi-family buildings should be operable from centralized controls.

Smoke Detectors: In addition to having them installed in each bedroom or in hallways adjacent to each bedroom, smoke detectors should be installed above stairways and hallways. They should be located on or near the ceiling, near the heads of stairs, and away from corners. Periodically check the operation of all smoke detectors by pushing their test buttons.

#stairs #stairmaintenance #stairsafet

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

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Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

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What is a WDO Inspection?

February 23, 2022/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Inspections, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Home-buyers will often ask “what is a WDO inspection?”. WDO stands for Wood-Destroying Organisms. These are pests that can cause serious problems in the wooden structural components of a home. That’s why an infestation may go unnoticed until the damage is already extensive. Control measures include preventing insect entry by sealing holes and cracks and hiring a professional to apply chemicals for remedial treatment. The most common types of destructive insects are termites and ants.

Termites

Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is often hard to notice, and damage usually is found before the termites are seen. You should take measures to prevent infestations, which may require hiring a pest-control service.

If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:

Frass or Sawdust-like Droppings which result from the insect’s tunneling activities
Dirt or Mud-like Tubes or Trails on various parts of the home’s structure such as wooden support members, plumbing pipes, or foundation
Exit Holes with Dirt at drywall/sheetrock
Damaged Wood Members such as window sills, trim, framing
Swarming, Winged Insects within the home, especially in the spring or fall

Carpenter Bees

Carpenter bees resemble bumblebees, but typically have a shiny, hairless abdomen (bumblebees usually have a hairy abdomen with black and yellow stripes. The carpenter bees also have different nesting habits. Bumblebees nest in an existing cavity often underground (abandoned rodent burrows), whereas carpenter bees tunnel into wood to lay their eggs.

The carpenter bee is so-called because of where it chooses to make its home. They are solitary bees and are not part of a larger hive community. Instead, they burrow into soft woods, such as the siding of a house, to live in and lay larvae. The female carpenter bee is the one who makes the hole by chewing through the wood.

Wood-Decaying Fungus

Wood-destroying fungus or fungi causes more damage to structures than all the fires, floods, and termites combined! Wood decaying fungus requires four fundamentals to survive which are oxygen, favorable temperatures, water, and food. Fungus occurs generally when the moisture content of wood exceeds 20 to 30 percent, coupled with optimal temperatures (32 ̊ – 90 ̊ F), an adequate supply of oxygen and a suitable source of energy and nutrients.

There are several different kinds of fungus including White Rot Fungi, Brown Rot Fungi, and Soft Rot Fungi.

Water is the enemy of wood! Moisture control must be an integral part of any plan designed for the prevention of wood decay fungi.

The following guidelines are a good way to start:

Make sure all wood in contact with the ground is pressure treated
Posts, piers and framing members should always be placed on concrete footers above the surrounding soil level
Guttering should carry all roof run-off water 2 to 6 feet away from the structure
Monitor all visible wood for signs of moisture retention, damage or intrusion, & correct the conditions
Ventilation of crawlspaces is critical to prevent “dead air” spaces
Adequate cross-ventilation beneath the structure will minimize “dead air” spaces
Install crawlspace vents at a minimum of two square feet per opening for every 25 linear feet of wall
Avoid any obstructions of the crawlspace vents by vegetation, storage or physically sealing off openings

Tips to Avoid Expensive Repairs

In crawlspaces with continuously moist soil, a vapor barrier can be installed to minimize condensation onto framing components. Vapor barriers are designed to maintain the moisture at the soil level
Use pressure treated wood properly, or select heartwood (redwood, cedar) or non-wood composite materials if moisture conditions are unavoidable (decks, wood in ground contact, etc.)
Borate treatment by a licensed professional will protect wood from decay
Repair plumbing leaks immediately
Clear rain gutters and downspouts of debris regularly
Repair roof leaks immediately
Maintain all exterior wood surfaces sealed with a water repellent paint or stain
Maintain all interior wood window sills sealed with a water repellent paint or stain since condensation is common around windows
Keep all commodes secured tightly to the floor to minimize possible leakage at the seal
Periodic inspections should be part of a routine maintenance schedule

The Importance of a WDO Inspection

Regular inspections of your home are an important part of home maintenance. Inspecting for wood-destroying insects and organisms can alert you to possible infestations in the wooden structural components of your home – – a serious problem that often goes undetected for a long time and can cause major damage to your home.

The inspector will thoroughly, visually inspect the exterior and interior of the home top to bottom inside and out. They know what to look for and where to look for the most common types of evidence of wood-destroying organisms.

Call your pest control professional or qualified InterNACHI inspector for your annual WDO Inspection, and protect your home from wood-destroying organisms.

In Oklahoma City we are Licensed and Insured to inspect for WDOs. In Florida, we are in the process of securing the same credentials. Until then, a company we have personally used is: Bryan Pest Contr

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Improper Installation

January 12, 2022/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Inspections/by Scott Price

Improper Installation

When we identify improper installation of a home’s system or fixture, we include it in the inspection report as a recommendation with photos (and video when applicable) and an explanation of who, what and why. For example, we might recommend to have a qualified professional repair the improper installation to restore proper functionality, to prevent damage to materials, and/or for personal safety. Inspectors do not diagnose problems, and we do not determine the method of repair. We leave those tasks to the qualified professional making the repair.

This dryer vent is a good example of improper installation (see photo). The dryer vent is functional, but it is not properly installed. The white dryer vent cover/louver should be flush with the masonry siding and sealed around the edges to prevent moisture and pest intrusion.

Inspecting Homes

Inspecting homes is an art form. Inspectors look for defects in home systems including improper installation. We get loads of training initially for licensing as well as continuing education annually. I have found a lot of the classroom training to be very beneficial, but nothing beats the on-the-job experience.

Inspecting a home and all its various systems is a big job. It can be intimidating to try to catch all the things that may be wrong with a home. After about 100 inspections, an inspector starts to see patterns. Improperly installed systems start to jump out at us.

Having an experienced Home Inspector give your potential new home a good inspection is invaluable. You will receive a wealth of information including recommendations for problems that need to be addresse

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Dishwashers

August 21, 2018/in Blog, Home Energy Efficiency, Home Safety, Homeowner Tools, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

How Does a Dishwasher Work?
Dishwashers are labor-saving and water-conserving appliances that were first invented in the U.S. in the 1850s. There are both portable units and permanently installed units that are found in most homes today.
Permanently installed dishwashers rely on the home’s electrical and plumbing systems, which is why their proper operation and maintenance are critical to household safety and trouble-free use.

A dishwasher operates with sprayed water using multiple cycles of washing and rinsing, followed by drying, using hot, forced circulated air. These cycles may be further distinguished according to length of cycle, power and temperature.

Dishwashers are plugged into a dedicated electrical receptacle at the back of the unit, and usually plumbed into the home’s hot water supply, although the cold water supply is also an option. This assures that the dishwasher’s load is optimally washed and rinsed using the maximum recommended temperature range of between 130° F and 170° F.

The dimensions of an average unit are 24×24 inches, although deluxe models may be wider and/or deeper to accommodate larger loads. Its interior components are typically made of stainless steel and/or plastic, and the exterior door may be metal, enamel-covered metal, or having a wood or wood-like veneer to match the decor of the kitchen cabinets.

Use, Maintenance and Precautions
Dishwasher-safe glasses, cups, plates, bowls, pots, pans and utensils, as well as some ceramic-ware and cutlery, are loaded into pull-out racks and baskets. They can be safely washed and rinsed in cycles that vary in intensity and length.

Many users rinse, soak or pre-treat cookware to remove solids and excess food waste before loading it in the dishwasher; this is a matter of personal preference, as well as how well the unit works on everyday and heavy-duty loads, although waste that cannot be adequately drained should be removed from dishware before the soiled items are loaded into the unit.

Dishwashers can also be used to effectively disinfect toothbrushes, infants’ plastic toys, formula bottles and synthetic nipples, and teething rings, as well as other household and personal hygiene items. However, extremely soiled items that come into contact with potentially hazardous or toxic materials, such as tools, gardening implements and the like, should not be washed in a dishwasher, as the toxic residue may not fully rinse out of the interior, which can contaminate future loads of dishware and utensils, as well as clog plumbing lines.

Soaps, pre-treaters and rinsing agents to prevent or eliminate water spots are available in a variety of costs, quality and effectiveness. They also come in both powder and liquid form. Regardless of the type of detergent used, it should be specifically for dishwasher use only, as other soaps can leave behind residue, as well as create excess foam and leaks.

Maintenance is relatively easy and can be done by running the unit through a hot-water cycle while it is empty, but this is only suggested following an especially dirty load where residue has not fully washed and drained for some reason.

Dishwashers should never be overloaded. Loads should be distributed and racked such that cleaning will be effective. It is recommended that plastic items be loaded into the unit’s top rack to avoid their coming into contact with hot elements in the unit’s bottom and then melting, or being jostled by the power of the sprayers and subsequently blocking them, which may prevent the water from reaching the unit’s entire load.

It is important to monitor the unit for failure to fully drain, as well as for leaks, excessive noise and movement, and burning smells, which can indicate a burned-out motor, an issue with the plumbing connected to the unit, or a problem with its original installation. A qualified professional should evaluate a malfunctioning unit and perform any repairs

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Kitchen Sink

August 18, 2018/in Blog, Home Safety, Homeowner Tools, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Sinks are a category of plumbing fixtures that includes kitchen sinks, service sinks, bar sinks, mop sinks and wash sinks. A sink is considered a different item than a lavatory (or a bathroom sink), although the terms are often used interchangeably. Sinks can be made of enameled cast-iron, vitreous china, stainless steel, porcelain-enameled formed steel, non-vitreous ceramic, and plastic materials.

Sink waste outlets should have a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. Most kitchen sinks have an opening of 3-1/2 inches in diameter. A food-waste grinder has a standard opening of 3-1/2 inches, and so do most kitchen sink basket strainers. A strainer or crossbar should be provided to restrict the clear opening of the waste outlet.

Plumbing Requirements for Garbage Disposals
Food-waste grinders (also known as garbage disposals and disposers) are designed to grind foods, including bones, into small-sized bits that can flow through the drain line. Using them to dispose of fibrous and stringy foods, such as corn husks, celery, banana skins and onions, is not recommended because fibers tend to pass by the grinder teeth, move into the drain pipe, and cause drains to clog.

Water must be supplied to the grinder to assist during its operation in transporting waste. The water flushes the grinder chamber and carries the waste down the drainpipe. Blockage may result if the grinder is used without running the water during operation. Grinders should be connected to a drain of not less than 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Food-waste grinders are supplied with water from the sink faucet. They do not add to the load used to compute drainage pipe sizing. The drain size required for a grinder is consistent with that for a kitchen sink.

Plumbing Requirements for Dishwashers
The water supply to a residential dishwasher should be protected against backflow by an air gap or backflow preventer. The machine must be equipped with an integral backflow mechanism, or the potable water supply must have either a backflow preventer or an air gap. The discharge pipe from the dishwasher should be increased to a minimum of 3/4-inch in diameter. It should be connected with a wye fitting to the sink tailpiece. Before connecting to the sink tailpiece, the dishwasher waste line should rise and be securely fastened to the underside of the counter. The combined discharge from a sink, dishwasher, and waste grinder is allowed to discharge through a single 1-1/2-inch trap.

Maintenance Tips
Homeowners should take care not to overload the garbage disposal or the dishwasher, as this can lead to leaks and backups in the sink and the plumbing system. A backup at the kitchen sink may mean that the garbage disposal is clogged, or the plumbing line has some obstruction that prevents proper drainage. It’s important that homeowners understand the cause of the problem, as well as the proper way to repair it, before dismantling pipes under the sink. The right size of fittings and replacement parts, as well as proper drainage (including slope and traps) will ensure that the sink will work as it should following a repair, which is why most maintenance issues are best left to professionals, unless the homeowner has the proper instruction, parts and tools available.

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Cracks in Masonry Walls

August 11, 2018/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Exterior Wall Covering

Regardless of the type of cladding covering the exterior of homes, most homes’ foundations are built using a reinforcing metal structure covered by some kind of concrete or masonry. Over time, cracks in masonry walls may develop. If your home has a masonry foundation (including masonry walls), here are some things to know, especially if you notice the development of any defects, cracks, or moisture intrusion in your crawlspace or basement.

Every homeowner should occasionally check the exterior of their home and the foundation, especially if there have been severe weather or geological events, such as heavy rains, flooding, or seismic activity, or nearby construction or industrial work that creates noticeable vibration, such as roadwork, the installation of oil or gas wells or pipeline, etc.

Before looking at the exterior, it’s useful to know which walls are load-bearing and which are not. Usually, this can be done by examining the beams and joists in the basement, crawlspace or attic. Also, note whether the walls are solid masonry or masonry-cavity, non-structural brick, or stone veneer. The overall quality of the building’s construction, and often that of its neighborhood, will be a good indicator of the condition of your home’s masonry.

All exposed masonry should be inspected for the following:

cracking;
spalling, which is the chipping or flaking of concrete, bricks or other masonry when improper drainage or venting and freeze-thaw weather cycling exists;
bowing, which is the term used to describe vertical bulging;
sweeping, which is horizontal bulging;
leaning; and
mortar deterioration.

Masonry Cracks

Although masonry can deform elastically over long periods of time to accommodate small amounts of movement during freeze-thaw cycles, large movements can cause masonry cracking, which may appear along the mortar joints or through the masonry units.

Cracking can result from a variety of problems:

differential settlement of the foundation;
drying shrinkage (particularly in a concrete block foundation);
expansion and contraction due to ambient thermal and moisture variations;
improper support over door and window openings, which is the effect of freeze-thaw cycles;
the corrosion of iron and steel wall reinforcement;
differential movement between building materials;
the expansion of salts in the cement mixture;
efflorescence, which is the white powder that forms on the surface of concrete/masonry walls as a result of water evaporation (and a cosmetic issue only); and
the bulging or leaning of walls.

Testing

Most common masonry wall cracks are caused by thermal or moisture expansion. Active cracks can be sealed with a flexible sealant. Inactive cracks may be pointed, which is the process of filling joints between masonry units or bricks with mortar. Some of this work should be undertaken by a masonry professional.

If there are evident or suspected problems, two methods of testing are sometimes useful for assessing masonry. This first test should be performed by a qualified masonry contractor. Probe holes can be drilled through the joints or masonry units with a masonry bit and probed with a stiff wire (or a fiber optic camera) to determine a wall’s thickness and the adequacy of its mortar. The probe holes are then patched after the investigation has been completed.

A hammer test can be used to determine the structural soundness of masonry units and their bond to the mortar. In a hammer test, the masonry is tapped lightly with a hammer, and the resonance of the sound produced is evaluated. Individual bricks can be replaced and the mortar re-pointed, as damaged bricks cannot be repaired. If re-pointing, the new mortar should be of the same composition as the existing mortar to prevent deterioration.

Historically Speaking

There may be a substantial difference in the masonry walls in buildings built during the last 40 to 50 years compared to those constructed earlier. Walls became thinner as designers began to more effectively exploit the compressive strength of masonry. This was done by using higher-strength masonry materials and mortars. But this change came at the expense of flexibility; as such, today’s masonry walls and foundations are often more brittle than their massive ancestors and, therefore, particularly susceptible to stress-induced damage. That’s why homeowners should be vigilant with their homeowner maintenance plan by occasionally checking the condition of their home’s foundation, along with any masonry walls.

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Vinyl Siding

August 8, 2018/in Blog, Home Energy Efficiency/by Scott Price

Vinyl Siding-Before and After

There are many different types of cladding or covering for the exterior of homes that give them their particular style and appeal. Different cladding types have their own particular pros and cons, as well as maintenance issues. Here are some facts and tips for homeowners whose homes have vinyl siding.

Homeowners, remodeling contractors and builders often choose vinyl siding as an alternative to wood and aluminum because it’s attractive, durable, easy to maintain, and cost-effective. Vinyl siding is made with PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and is often textured to resemble wood or stone in a variety of colors. Vinyl siding came into use as an exterior cladding in the late 1950s. Today, it’s the most common choice for exterior cladding.

Advantages:

Vinyl siding is very durable.
It will last for decades when properly installed and maintained.
It will not fade.
It will not rust.
The outer layer contains pigment that adds color to the siding and resists breakdown from UV radiation from sunlight. If scratched, the siding will reveal the same color as the unscratched exterior, so minor imperfections are not too noticeable.
As long as the siding has been properly installed, maintenance is very simple, limited mostly to spray-washing once a year or whenever necessary.

Disadvantages:

In extreme weather conditions, vinyl siding is susceptible to damage, as is any other type of siding.
In severe cold, vinyl siding can become brittle and more susceptible to cracking.
Extreme heat can also cause vinyl to melt or distort. There are reported cases of sunlight reflected from nearby windows that has caused vinyl siding to warp and melt.
Vinyl siding is not a form of insulation—it is simply an exterior cladding. However, some salespeople misrepresent this fact with claims that new siding will aid energy efficiency. This is only true for siding that includes special insulating inserts or backings—not to the vinyl siding itself.
Vinyl siding is not a watertight covering, so check the inside occasionally for water intrusion if you’ve experienced heavy weather.
If a fire occurs, vinyl siding will melt or burn and may release toxic chemicals, making the situation more dangerous for the home’s occupants. Some green advocates believe that PVC itself can have a negative impact on health, and there is much debate about these claims.

Tips for Homeowners:

Properly installed panels and accessories should move freely from side to side.
Drainage holes or slots in horizontal vinyl siding allow water behind the siding to drain and should not be covered or caulked.
Ripples in the siding can result from stapling or nailing through the face of the siding, which is an incorrect installation. Distortion and buckling of panels may be caused by fasteners that were not driven straight and level. If this happens, the homeowner should consult their builder’s warranty.
Exterior lights and other features should not be attached directly to the vinyl siding. They should be secured to mounting blocks instead, since fasteners penetrating the siding will restrict the siding’s natural expansion and contraction. Always use corrosion-resistant fasteners for any exterior installation.
Power-wash the exterior as often as necessary.
Check the condition of vinyl gutters and downspouts at least once a year. While vinyl siding can last for 60 years, gutters and downspouts last around half as long, when properly installed and maintainedHome Run Inspections, LLCOklahoma: 405-905-9175
Florida: 850-203-3239

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Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

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Attic Access Pull-Down Stairs

August 5, 2018/2 Comments/in Blog, Home Energy Efficiency, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Attic Access Pull-Down Stairs
An attic pull-down ladder, also called an attic pull-down stairway or stairs, is a collapsible ladder that’s permanently attached to the attic floor. It’s used to access the attic without being required to use a portable ladder, which can be unstable, as well as inconvenient.

Common Defects
It’s typical for the homeowner, rather than the professional builder, to install the attic pull-down stairs, especially if it’s an older home or a newer home that’s been built upward in order to use the attic for living or storage space. That’s why these stairs rarely meet safety standards and are prone to a number of defects.

Some of the more common defective conditions include:

Cut bottom cord of structural truss. The homeowner may have cut through a structural member while installing a pull-down ladder, unknowingly weakening the structure. Structural members should not be modified without an engineer’s approval;
Fastened with improper nails or screws. Drywall or deck screws may be used instead of the standard 16d penny nails or ¼x3-inch lag screws. Nails and screws that are intended for other purposes may have reduced shear strength and may not support the pull-down ladder;
fastened with an insufficient number of nails or screws. Manufacturers provide a certain number of nails with instructions that they all be used, and they do this for a good reason;
Lack of insulation. The attic hatch or door is not likely to be weatherstripped and/or insulated, which will allow air from the attic to flow freely into the living space of the home, and this will cause the heating or cooling system to run overtime. An attic hatch cover box can be installed to increase energy savings;
Loose mounting bolts, which is typically caused by age, although improper installation will hasten the loosening process;
Attic pull-down ladders that are cut too short. The stairs should reach the floor;
Attic pull-down ladders that are cut too long. This causes pressure at the folding hinge, which can cause breakage;
Improper or missing fasteners
Compromised fire barrier (when the attic and access are above an attached garage);
Attic ladder frame that is not properly secured to the ceiling opening; and
Closed ladder that is covered with debris, such as blown insulation or roofing material shed during roof work.
Cracked steps. This defect is a problem with wooden ladders.

Safety Tips:
If yours is a sliding pull-down ladder, there is a potential for it to slide down too quickly, which can lead to an injury. Always pull the ladder down slowly and cautiously.
Do not allow children to enter the attic unattended. The lanyard attached to the attic stairs should be short enough that children cannot reach it. Parents can also lock the attic ladder so that a key or combination is required to access it.
If possible, avoid carrying large loads into the attic. While a properly installed stairway will safely support an adult, it might fail if you’re carrying a very heavy load. Many trips can be made to reduce the total weight load, if possible.
Replace an old, rickety wooden ladder with a new one. The newer aluminum models are lightweight, sturdy and easy to install. If you do install a new ladder, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter, and test the ladder’s operation before actually using it.

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Attic Insulation

August 2, 2018/in Blog, Home Energy Efficiency, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Controlling Heat Movement

Heating and cooling costs can be slashed by up to 30% per year by properly sealing and having adequate attic insulation in the home. Insulating the attic should be a top priority for preventing heat loss because during cool seasons, as heat rises, a critical amount of heat loss from the living areas of the home occurs through an unfinished attic. During the summer months, heat trapped in the attic can reduce the home’s ability to keep cool, forcing the home’s cooling system to work overtime.

What to Check

The lack of adequate ventilation in insulated attics is a common problem. Ensuring that there is a free flow of outside air from the soffits to the roof vents is key to a well-functioning insulation system. Look behind the baffles to see if there is any misplaced insulation obstructing the natural air flow, and check the roof vents to make sure that outside air is exhausting properly. Also, look for spots where the insulation is compacted; it may need to be fluffed out. If loose-fill insulation is installed, check for any thinly spread areas that may need topping up. Finally, look for dark spots in the insulation where incoming air is admitting wind-blown dust and moisture into the material. Any unintended openings or holes caused by weathering or pest damage should be repaired first.

Installing Attic Insulation

The objective in an attic insulation project is to insulate the living space of the house while allowing the roof to retain the same temperature as the outdoors. This prevents cold outside air from traveling through the attic and into the living area of the home. In order to accomplish this, an adequate venting system must be in place to vent the roof by allowing air flow to enter through soffit-intake vents and out through ridge vents, gable vents or louver vents.

If there is currently a floor in the attic, it will be necessary to pull up pieces of the floor to install the insulation. In this case, it will be easier to use a blower and loose-fill insulation to effectively fill the spaces between the joists. If you choose to go with blown-in insulation, you can usually get free use of a blower when you purchase a certain amount of insulation.

When installing fiberglass insulation, make sure that you wear personal protective equipment, including a hat, gloves, goggles and a face mask, as stray fiberglass material can become airborne, which can cause irritation to the lungs, eyes and exposed skin.

The process

Before you begin actually installing the insulation, there is some important preparation involved in order to ensure that the insulation is applied properly to prevent hazards and to achieve maximum effectiveness.

Step 1: Install Roof Baffles
Install polystyrene or plastic roof baffles where the joists meet the rafters order to maintain the free flow of outside air.

Step 2: Place Baffles Around Electrical Fixtures
Next, place baffles around any electrical fixtures (lights, electrical receptacles, etc.), since these may become hot while in use. Hold the baffles in place by cross-sectioning the rafters with 2x4s placed at a 3-inch clearance around the fixture. Cut the polystyrene board to fit around the fixture and inside the wood square you have just created.

Step 3: Install a Vapor Barrier
If you are installing insulation with a vapor barrier, make sure it faces the interior of the house. Another option for a vapor barrier is to take sheets of plastic and lay them between the ceiling joists. Then, using a staple gun, tack them to the sides of the joists.

Step 4: Apply the Insulation
Begin by cutting long strips of fiberglass to measure, and lay them in between the joists. Do not bunch or compress the material; this will reduce the insulative effect.

Considerations for Attic Flooring

A second layer of insulation will make it easier to obtain the recommended R-value. In colder climates, use an R-value of 49 for adequate attic insulation. In warmer climates, use and R-value of 30. Fiberglass insulation has an R-value of roughly R-3 per inch of thickness; cellulose has an R-value of roughly R-4 per inch, but it doesn’t retain its R-value rating as well as fiberglass.

If an attic floor is in place, it will be easier to use a blower to add cellulose insulation into the spaces. The best way to achieve this is to carefully select pieces of the floor and remove them in a manner such that you will have access to all of the spaces in between the joists. Run the blower hose up into the attic. A helper can control the blower. Blow the insulation into the spaces between the joists, taking care not to blow insulation near electrical fixtures. Replace any missing flooring pieces.

Loose-fill insulation, either fiberglass or cellulose, is also a good option in cases where there is no attic floor. In such circumstances, you won’t need a blower; you can simply place the insulation between the joists by hand. You may also wish to even out the spread with a notched leveler

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