What is a WDO Inspection?

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Home-buyers will often ask “what is a WDO inspection?”. WDO stands for Wood-Destroying Organisms. These are pests that can cause serious problems in the wooden structural components of a home. That’s why an infestation may go unnoticed until the damage is already extensive. Control measures include preventing insect entry by sealing holes and cracks and hiring a professional to apply chemicals for remedial treatment. The most common types of destructive insects are termites and ants.

Termites

Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is often hard to notice, and damage usually is found before the termites are seen. You should take measures to prevent infestations, which may require hiring a pest-control service.

If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:

  • Frass or Sawdust-like Droppings which result from the insect’s tunneling activities
  • Dirt or Mud-like Tubes or Trails on various parts of the home’s structure such as wooden support members, plumbing pipes, or foundation
  • Exit Holes with Dirt at drywall/sheetrock
  • Damaged Wood Members such as window sills, trim, framing
  • Swarming, Winged Insects within the home, especially in the spring or fall

Carpenter Bees

Carpenter bees resemble bumblebees, but typically have a shiny, hairless abdomen (bumblebees usually have a hairy abdomen with black and yellow stripes. The carpenter bees also have different nesting habits. Bumblebees nest in an existing cavity often underground (abandoned rodent burrows), whereas carpenter bees tunnel into wood to lay their eggs.

The carpenter bee is so-called because of where it chooses to make its home. They are solitary bees and are not part of a larger hive community. Instead, they burrow into soft woods, such as the siding of a house, to live in and lay larvae. The female carpenter bee is the one who makes the hole by chewing through the wood.

Wood-Decaying Fungus

Wood-destroying fungus or fungi causes more damage to structures than all the fires, floods, and termites combined! Wood decaying fungus requires four fundamentals to survive which are oxygen, favorable temperatures, water, and food. Fungus occurs generally when the moisture content of wood exceeds 20 to 30 percent, coupled with optimal temperatures (32 ̊ – 90 ̊ F), an adequate supply of oxygen and a suitable source of energy and nutrients.

There are several different kinds of fungus including White Rot Fungi, Brown Rot Fungi, and Soft Rot Fungi.

Water is the enemy of wood! Moisture control must be an integral part of any plan designed for the prevention of wood decay fungi.

The following guidelines are a good way to start:
  • Make sure all wood in contact with the ground is pressure treated
  • Posts, piers and framing members should always be placed on concrete footers above the surrounding soil level
  • Guttering should carry all roof run-off water 2 to 6 feet away from the structure
  • Monitor all visible wood for signs of moisture retention, damage or intrusion, & correct the conditions
  • Ventilation of crawlspaces is critical to prevent “dead air” spaces
  • Adequate cross-ventilation beneath the structure will minimize “dead air” spaces
  • Install crawlspace vents at a minimum of two square feet per opening for every 25 linear feet of wall
  • Avoid any obstructions of the crawlspace vents by vegetation, storage or physically sealing off openings
Tips to Avoid Expensive Repairs
  • In crawlspaces with continuously moist soil, a vapor barrier can be installed to minimize condensation onto framing components. Vapor barriers are designed to maintain the moisture at the soil level
  • Use pressure treated wood properly, or select heartwood (redwood, cedar) or non-wood composite materials if moisture conditions are unavoidable (decks, wood in ground contact, etc.)
  • Borate treatment by a licensed professional will protect wood from decay
  • Repair plumbing leaks immediately
  • Clear rain gutters and downspouts of debris regularly
  • Repair roof leaks immediately
  • Maintain all exterior wood surfaces sealed with a water repellent paint or stain
  • Maintain all interior wood window sills sealed with a water repellent paint or stain since condensation is common around windows
  • Keep all commodes secured tightly to the floor to minimize possible leakage at the seal
  • Periodic inspections should be part of a routine maintenance schedule

The Importance of a WDO Inspection

Regular inspections of your home are an important part of home maintenance. Inspecting for wood-destroying insects and organisms can alert you to possible infestations in the wooden structural components of your home – – a serious problem that often goes undetected for a long time and can cause major damage to your home.

The inspector will thoroughly, visually inspect the exterior and interior of the home top to bottom inside and out. They know what to look for and where to look for the most common types of evidence of wood-destroying organisms.

Call your pest control professional or qualified InterNACHI inspector for your annual WDO Inspection, and protect your home from wood-destroying organisms.

In Oklahoma City we are Licensed and Insured to inspect for WDOs. In Florida, we are in the process of securing the same credentials. Until then, a company we have personally used is:  Bryan Pest Control

Schedule Inspections with us Online at:  Home Run Inspections, LLC

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Locating Your Water Shut-Off

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When temperatures rise above freezing,  a significant number of water plumbing problems will show themselves.  When or if they do in your home, you will need to know where the water shut-off to your home is located. Due to the number of problems this deep freeze is going to cause, it might be a while before you can get that repair done.  It is a good idea to get the phone number handy for a local, reputable plumber just in case.

Hopefully you already have an idea of where the water shut-off is located.  If you had your home inspected by Home Run Inspections LLC, you got that information from your inspector at the end of your inspection and also have that information in your inspection report.  If you cannot locate your inspection report or email with the inspection report link, give us a call, and we can re-send that to you.

Possible Locations

Let’s explore some possible locations.  Fortunately, in many modern homes, it is located on the interior of your home.  Better yet, interior water shut-offs typically require no special tools to operate them. Handles are, in older homes, like that on an exterior hose spigot.  Newer interior valves have a handle that you grab and move about 1/4 turn to the right.

Possible Locations:

  • Street Side Meter Vault
  • Garage
  • Laundry/Utility Room
  • Under the Kitchen Sink
  • Under the Bathroom Sink
  • Hallway Closet
  • Front Bedroom Closet

The valve handle may be readily visible, or it may be behind a wooden or plastic door.  These doors are typically located about 12″ above the floor. Although, I have seen them at eye level when the valve is part of what is called a plumbing manifold.

If you have well water, the shut-off valve will be at the well equipment or you can shut water supply off by turning off power to the well head itself.  This breaker is usually located at the electrical panel which is typically located in the garage or on an exterior wall.  It can be located at the well equipment itself if the equipment is in an exterior structure.

Even if you are fortunate enough to have an interior water shut off that you can access from the comfort of your home without a tool,  your main water shut off is typically streetside at the front of your home.  For a lot of home owners, this is the only water shut off available.  To access this vault, you will need a tool referred to as a church key or water meter vault key.

Tools Needed

The top of this very cool tool looks similar to a flag and is the part that is used to open the lid.  Simply insert and turn. Sometimes you can just lift it off.  Others will require a little finesse to get the mechanism to release the lid.  The U-shaped attachment at the end of the tool. is used to turn the valve at the bottom of the vault.  Fit the attachment on the top of the valve. Then, using the top handles, turn the valve (typically to the right) until you feel a stop.  You should leave a faucet or tub running before going to turn this valve off.  This will allow you to see the meter running at the beginning and then to see it stop when you have successfully closed the valve.

Of course, this process may be above the scope of what you or any member of your household may be able to accomplish.  In that case, call your local water company, advise them of the problem, and they will have someone come out to shut off the water for you.

Hopefully you have found this article helpful.  If so, be sure and share it with friends and family that may find it helpful as well.  At Home Run Inspections LLC, we understand that owning a home is a big responsibility. We do our best at every inspection to help our clients better understand not only any problems that the home may currently have, but also how to manage problems that will likely occur while they enjoy life in the home they have chosen.

 

At Home Run Inspections we make it easy to get your inspections done. Schedule your inspection online today!

 

 

 

 

Dryer Exhaust Vents: Correct and Incorrect

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A home is a structure that encases a variety of systems.  These systems, by their very nature and design, require regular maintenance.  

At Home Run Inspections, LLC, in addition to providing an incredibly detailed and comprehensive home inspection, we do our best to educate our clients about the home and the systems they will need to attend to over time:  where the furnace filters are located, where the breaker panel is located, where the sewer clean out is located, for example.

One of the most utilized and arguably most ignored systems in a home, is the dryer exhaust vent.  Depending upon how many people live in a home, this vent is utilized weekly and often several times weekly (if not daily).

After completing over 100o inspections personally and overseeing over 4000 as a company, I can confidently tell you most dryer vents we inspect have problems.  We have a long list of potential recommendations based on the training we gain as home inspectors, but more importantly, from experience.  Issues range from the most common, a disconnected exhaust pipe in the attic or crawlspace or a missing dryer exhaust, to the more difficult to identify as in difficult to observe obstructions or incorrect vent discharge point.

All of our reports tell you about your dryer vent, what it is composed of and where it discharges.  Most of our inspectors like to take a picture of the discharge point, along with an up-view of the vent to identify blockages or missing parts.

By far, the most common recommendation is to clear blockages.  I’ve read in more than one place that obstructed dryer vents are one of the most common starting points for residential home fires.

One of the cooler aspects about our jobs as home inspectors is discovering innovative ways to deal with common home system problems.  These upgrades often come in the form of a new product offered by service companies, but they often may be a resolution created by the home owner.

Innovative Practices

The above photos show an ingenious way to slow the accumulation of lint in the dryer vent pipe.  A common problem for a typical home in the OKC metro is that the vent pipe, carrying hot moist air, flows through a cool, unconditioned space(the attic) during the winter.  This can cause a massive build up of lint as condensation on the inside of the pipe collects lint as it makes it way to the exterior vent. I’ve also seen a booster fan mechanism that you can insert in the pipe to help move the moist air to the discharge point more quickly and presumably reducing problems.

Which brings us to one of the most important aspects of the dryer vent system; the exhaust vent exterior.  This is a point that also often experiences a collection of moist lint over time, and thus an obstruction. This point is often at the roof, but it can also be in a number of other locations such as an exterior wall, roof soffit, or even the crawlspace.

As you can see, out of sight out of mind does not always end well.  Moisture and lint in the attic or crawlspace is a no-no. Exhausted air should always discharge to the exterior.

Check out our blog articles often to keep you thinking about how to best take care of your humble abode so it can take care of you and those you love.  Take a look at our Report process for insights on how we really go the extra mile to tell you all about your potential purchase.

Keep us in mind when you or someone you know needs a residential or commercial property inspection. Scheduling is a breeze on our website 24/7 in the Oklahoma City Metro or Florida Panhandle.

We look forward to exceeding your expectations while we Cover all the Bases!

 

 

 

 

Covering All the Bases

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(termite tubes in a locked exterior mechanical closet)

Oklahoma Standards of Practice

As a licensed home inspector, we follow the State of Oklahoma Standards of Practice.  There is a long list of systems that we inspect and describe at a home inspection.  Covering all the bases includes the big systems you would think of like the roof, plumbing, electrical, and structure.  I have found over the years that what makes a good home inspector is a strong sense of curiosity along with an educator’s heart.

There are a lot of things to inspect on homes that are not covered by Oklahoma’s Home Inspector SOPs.  For example, home inspections do not cover (unless contracted to) termites, pool and spa systems, well and septic systems, sewer lines, and in-slab HVAC ducts to name a few.  Home buyers often want and need these systems inspected.  That creates a lot of extra work for the buyer and or their agent to make sure all of these specialists show up at the same time.

(object puncturing sewer line creating an obstruction and waste leak into the yard)

Covering All the Bases

As an business owner, I saw early on that it would be a lot easier on customers for our company to incorporate those other inspections into our Home Inspection services offered.  It’s been a challenge to learn about all of these other systems. Not only have we completed the course work, but have received hands-on training from the experts.  I believe we have done a great job of becoming the  One-Stop-Shop that makes the home buying process far less complicated.

We now have the equipment to provide all kinds of inspections(cover all the bases) that you may need for your inspection.  These include pool and spa, well and septic, duct and sewer scoping, Indoor Air Quality test, and more.

You can view a sample report Here.

Give us a Call!

Scheduling is a breeze 24/7 on our easy to use on-line scheduler. Florida  Oklahoma

 

 

 

Trash Compactors

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Why Use a Trash Compactor?
Permanently installed residential trash compactors run on electricity and use a small hydraulic system to crush trash down to a fraction of its original volume (sometimes down to 25%) in order to reduce the amount of non-biodegradable waste regularly generated by a household.  Smaller and narrower than a dishwasher, they are a standard kitchen appliance in new-construction homes.

How They Work
Trash compactors have three main components:  the motor; the ram; and the trash container drawer.  The motor runs using household electricity, which activates the ram that is operated using hydraulics.  Units vary by size, quality and cost.  The loading capacity for the average home unit is generally around 25 gallons, and the compacting force can range between 2,000 pounds to 5,000 pounds, depending on type and quality.

Most units must be at least half full in order to work properly.  To use the unit, non-food refuse should be placed or stacked neatly at the bottom of the drawer.  When it is at least half full, the unit can be activated so that the ram compacts the drawer’s contents.

Safely Disposing of Household Trash
Generally, bottles, cans, cardboard, paper and plastic items and the like can be conveniently disposed of in a trash compactor.  In order to minimize odors, containers that once held food and beverages should be rinsed before being placed in the drawer.

Trash compactors require the use of specially-fitted bags that, once filled, easily lift out of the unit for disposal or trash pickup.

Perishable food items can stain the unit’s interior and create unnecessary mess and foul odors, which is why they should not be disposed of in a trash compactor.  These types of items should be discarded using a garbage disposal or food grinder, or recycled as compost waste.

Additionally, hazardous materials should never be placed in a trash compactor, as crushing them can have unintended consequences that can damage the unit, create an unsafe environment, and/or cause negative health effects.  These include batteries, cigarette butts (which may not be fully extinguished), household rags used with toxic substances, cans and containers that held hazardous liquids and chemicals (as residue can spill out and cause damage or negative health effects), and similar items.  These should be wrapped and disposed of separately, or recycled according to local guidelines or ordinances.

Safety Precautions and Sensors
As a safety precaution, trash must never be stuffed down into the bottom of the drawer with one’s hands or feet, as this can dent or offset the drawer and its rollers, as well as damage the hydraulics. Rough use and frequent misuse can lead to chronic problems with the unit and its components.

Caution should be used when removing filled bags, as items that have been crushed may create sharp protrusions.  Many people wear gloves while removing bags for disposal.

The unit should always be locked, even when not in use.  Curious children may wish to pull open the drawer and hide inside, or activate the unit, which is why they should never be left unattended around an unlocked trash compactor.

Spills around the unit should be immediately cleaned up for safety as well as hygienic reasons.  Because trash compactors use electricity, spilled water or other liquids can cause the unit to short out or create an unsafe hazard for users.

Trash compactors have built-in safeguards, such as locks, misload sensors, tilt sensors, and drawer-monitor switches, which are designed to help prevent injury, over-filling and under-filling, as well as detect when trash has been accidentally placed within the unit but outside the drawer (such as behind the drawer where the ram and hydraulics are located).  However, because they are constructed of many mechanical parts and electrical wiring, trash compactors can malfunction and chronically break down if not used and maintained properly.
Repairs and replacing parts should be performed by a qualified professional.

Garbage Disposals/Food-Waste Disposers

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What Are Food-Waste Disposers?
Garbage disposals, also called food-waste disposers, are residential appliances designed to shred food waste so that it can fit through plumbing. They are usually electrically powered (although occasionally powered by water pressure) and are installed beneath sinks.

Why Use a Garbage Disposal?
When food waste is discarded into the trash, it places an enormous burden on waste-management systems. Garbage disposals reduce the severity of these problems by routing food waste into septic systems or sewers instead of landfills.

Garbage Disposals and Septic Systems
If a garbage disposal discharges into a septic tank, it can place significant strain on the septic system. The amount of waste that enters the tank, particularly grease and suspended solids, will increase considerably. This load increase requires that the septic tank be pumped more often than would otherwise be required. The additional strain will also reduce the lifespan of the septic system. Septic systems can be designed to accommodate food waste, but, in general, they are not.

Electrical Wiring Requirements

  • The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not require a garbage disposal to have GFCI protection.
  • The vibration caused by the operation of a garbage disposal can cause electrical connections to separate. Check for any loose connections in the wire compartment box at the base of the disposal.
  • Garbage disposals should be either hardwired or connected to an outlet through a grounded electrical outlet.
  • A dedicated circuit is generally recommended, although a circuit that is shared with a dishwasher is sometimes appropriate. The disposal’s user or installation manual should be consulted.

Precautions for Testing Garbage Disposals:

  • To test a garbage disposal for leaks, turn it on and run water through it. The water load should be great enough so that any leaks will become apparent. A good way to do this is to close the drain and fill the sink with water before releasing the stopper.
  • While testing a garbage disposal, never put anything other than water through it. Before turning it on, check to make sure there are no objects already in the disposal.
  • If a dishwasher is connected to the disposal, make sure that the line that connects them is securely attached.
  • Check to make sure that the garbage disposal is connected to a drain that is 1½ inches or greater in diameter.
  • Check to make sure that the disposal is provided with an adequate water supply.
  • If the home has a double sink, check to make sure the waste pipe from the disposal has a trap installed.

Maintenance and Operation Suggestions:

  • Put only small quantities of food into the disposal at a time. Large food scraps should be cut into smaller pieces before entering the disposal.
  • Never put anything down the disposal that is not food or water. Bottle caps, aluminum foil, and other non-food items can damage the disposal or get stuck in the plumbing piping.
  • Run water while using the disposal and for approximately 30 seconds after you turn it off. Food scraps will flow through the piping more easily if they are pushed along by water. Cold water is better than warm water for this purpose because it will force fats and grease to congeal and harden, allowing them to move more easily through pipes. Warm water can be run through the disposal while it is not in operation.
  • Ice can be used to clear off solidified grease and other debris from the blades in a garbage disposal.

The garbage disposal should be used to grind only non-fibrous, leftover food. If in doubt as to whether something can be put in the disposal, err on the side of caution and put it in the trash instead.
The following items should never be put in a disposal:

  • items that are hard enough to dull the blades, such as shells from shellfish or bones;
  • food that is highly fibrous, such as corn husks, artichokes, pineapples, potato peels, asparagus, or celery, which should enter a disposal only in small quantities or disposed of in the trash. These foods take a long time to grind and can clog the disposal or the plumbing;
  • grease and household oils; or
  • chemicals.

Garbage disposals have the potential to limit the amount of household trash that must be taken away to waste management facilities. They can also place additional strain on septic systems and, for this reason, they should be used infrequently.

Dishwashers

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How Does a Dishwasher Work?
Dishwashers are labor-saving and water-conserving appliances that were first invented in the U.S. in the 1850s.  There are both portable units and permanently installed units that are found in most homes today.
Permanently installed dishwashers rely on the home’s electrical and plumbing systems, which is why their proper operation and maintenance are critical to household safety and trouble-free use.

A dishwasher operates with sprayed water using multiple cycles of washing and rinsing, followed by drying, using hot, forced circulated air.  These cycles may be further distinguished according to length of cycle, power and temperature.

Dishwashers are plugged into a dedicated electrical receptacle at the back of the unit, and usually plumbed into the home’s hot water supply, although the cold water supply is also an option.  This assures that the dishwasher’s load is optimally washed and rinsed using the maximum recommended temperature range of between 130°  F and 170° F.

The dimensions of an average unit are 24×24 inches, although deluxe models may be wider and/or deeper to accommodate larger loads.  Its interior components are typically made of stainless steel and/or plastic, and the exterior door may be metal, enamel-covered metal, or having a wood or wood-like veneer to match the decor of the kitchen cabinets.

Use, Maintenance and Precautions
Dishwasher-safe glasses, cups, plates, bowls, pots, pans and utensils, as well as some ceramic-ware and cutlery, are loaded into pull-out racks and baskets.  They can be safely washed and rinsed in cycles that vary in intensity and length.

Many users rinse, soak or pre-treat cookware to remove solids and excess food waste before loading it in the dishwasher; this is a matter of personal preference, as well as how well the unit works on everyday and heavy-duty loads, although waste that cannot be adequately drained should be removed from dishware before the soiled items are loaded into the unit.

Dishwashers can also be used to effectively disinfect toothbrushes, infants’ plastic toys, formula bottles and synthetic nipples, and teething rings, as well as other household and personal hygiene items. However, extremely soiled items that come into contact with potentially hazardous or toxic materials, such as tools, gardening implements and the like, should not be washed in a dishwasher, as the toxic residue may not fully rinse out of the interior, which can contaminate future loads of dishware and utensils, as well as clog plumbing lines.

Soaps, pre-treaters and rinsing agents to prevent or eliminate water spots are available in a variety of costs, quality and effectiveness.  They also come in both powder and liquid form.  Regardless of the type of detergent used, it should be specifically for dishwasher use only, as other soaps can leave behind residue, as well as create excess foam and leaks.

Maintenance is relatively easy and can be done by running the unit through a hot-water cycle while it is empty, but this is only suggested following an especially dirty load where residue has not fully washed and drained for some reason.

Dishwashers should never be overloaded.  Loads should be distributed and racked such that cleaning will be effective.  It is recommended that plastic items be loaded into the unit’s top rack to avoid their coming into contact with hot elements in the unit’s bottom and then melting, or being jostled by the power of the sprayers and subsequently blocking them, which may prevent the water from reaching the unit’s entire load.

It is important to monitor the unit for failure to fully drain, as well as for leaks, excessive noise and movement, and burning smells, which can indicate a burned-out motor, an issue with the plumbing connected to the unit, or a problem with its original installation.  A qualified professional should evaluate a malfunctioning unit and perform any repairs.

Sinks

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Sinks are a category of plumbing fixtures that includes kitchen sinks, service sinks, bar sinks, mop sinks and wash sinks. A sink is considered a different item than a lavatory (or a bathroom sink), although the terms are often used interchangeably. Sinks can be made of enameled cast-iron, vitreous china, stainless steel, porcelain-enameled formed steel, non-vitreous ceramic, and plastic materials.

Sink waste outlets should have a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. Most kitchen sinks have an opening of 3-1/2 inches in diameter. A food-waste grinder has a standard opening of 3-1/2 inches, and so do most kitchen sink basket strainers. A strainer or crossbar should be provided to restrict the clear opening of the waste outlet.

Plumbing Requirements for Garbage Disposals
Food-waste grinders (also known as garbage disposals and disposers) are designed to grind foods, including bones, into small-sized bits that can flow through the drain line. Using them to dispose of fibrous and stringy foods, such as corn husks, celery, banana skins and onions, is not recommended because fibers tend to pass by the grinder teeth, move into the drain pipe, and cause drains to clog.

Water must be supplied to the grinder to assist during its operation in transporting waste. The water flushes the grinder chamber and carries the waste down the drainpipe. Blockage may result if the grinder is used without running the water during operation. Grinders should be connected to a drain of not less than 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Food-waste grinders are supplied with water from the sink faucet. They do not add to the load used to compute drainage pipe sizing. The drain size required for a grinder is consistent with that for a kitchen sink.

Plumbing Requirements for Dishwashers
The water supply to a residential dishwasher should be protected against backflow by an air gap or backflow preventer. The machine must be equipped with an integral backflow mechanism, or the potable water supply must have either a backflow preventer or an air gap. The discharge pipe from the dishwasher should be increased to a minimum of 3/4-inch in diameter. It should be connected with a wye fitting to the sink tailpiece. Before connecting to the sink tailpiece, the dishwasher waste line should rise and be securely fastened to the underside of the counter. The combined discharge from a sink, dishwasher, and waste grinder is allowed to discharge through a single 1-1/2-inch trap.

Maintenance Tips
Homeowners should take care not to overload the garbage disposal or the dishwasher, as this can lead to leaks and backups in the sink and the plumbing system.  A backup at the kitchen sink may mean that the garbage disposal is clogged, or the plumbing line has some obstruction that prevents proper drainage.  It’s important that homeowners understand the cause of the problem, as well as the proper way to repair it, before dismantling pipes under the sink.  The right size of fittings and replacement parts, as well as proper drainage (including slope and traps) will ensure that the sink will work as it should following a repair, which is why most maintenance issues are best left to professionals, unless the homeowner has the proper instruction, parts and tools available.

Roof Penetrations: Vents

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Homeowners don’t generally want to climb on their roofs to check roof penetrations and its general condition unless they’ve experienced a major storm or other issue that prompts them to investigate.  This is smart because, as untrained non-professionals, homeowners are at greater risk for accidents and injuries than pros.

But it’s useful for homeowners to know what they’re likely to find if they do climb their roof—or have someone else climb it, such as an insurance adjuster or roofing contractor—so that they have some idea of what the components are and what they do, as well as when those components are damaged and creating problems down below.

The proper term for anything that pokes out of the surface of the roof is known as a roof penetration.  Whether it’s a chimney, skylight or vent pipe, it falls under that category.  As such, there are important elements related to the installation of all roof penetrations that prevent their premature deterioration, which means that your roof and the structure under it will stay dry and problem-free.

Vents
The most common type of roof penetration are vents. Every home has them. Vents are installed to expel gas or moisture of some sort from an appliance or area inside the house.  Vents are also called flues.

Here are the most common types and their functions:

  • Exhaust vents or mechanical ventilation allow the escape of damp air and odors from a bathroom, clothes dryer, and from the range above a stove in order to prevent the buildup of condensation.
  • Each plumbing drainpipe in the home is connected to a plumbing stack vent, which helps ensure the appliance’s proper drainage by preventing back-siphoning, which can pull noxious vapors and sewer gases back into the home.  One important aspect of their installation is that they should not be located with 3 feet of an openable window so that these gases don’t get sucked back into the home.
  • Vents installed in the attic space are known as roof vents or turtle vents, which release hot air that can build up inside the attic as a result of heat rising from the living space below.  Venting this hot air is important to prevent the premature deterioration of the roofing materials, which can overheat and lose adhesion or delaminate, as well as form condensation, under the right conditions, which can also affect wooden structural members and insulation.
  • Combustion vents are installed for fuel-burning appliances, such as a furnace, boiler, water heater, gas range, fireplace—any appliance that burns fuel for its operation, such as gas, propane, oil, wood, etc. They exhaust the toxic byproducts of combustion to the outdoors.

Vents can be made of galvanized steel, such as a dryer vent.  PVC is appropriate to use as plumbing stack vents, depending on the appliance, as long as there is no chance of the exhausted air being too warm, which can cause the PVC to melt. Some vents may have caps or hoods to prevent rainwater from entering them (such as a dryer vent), and others don’t, such as plumbing stacks. There are also vent-like roof penetrations that are actually air intakes, such as for a furnace, which aid proper combustion.

Vents can be double-walled or single-wall, depending on their purpose.  Combustion vents tend to be double-walled.  Some vents serve multiple items or appliances, but they tend to be of the same type.  A vent that serves more than one plumbing fixture needs to be larger in order to move the gas at an appropriate rate.

Problems with Combustion Vents
If installed properly, vents tend to operate problem-free, but poor installation or materials can lead to issues, such as leaks, corrosion, and insufficient ventilation.  That’s when the problems can affect the living space and appliances below.  The most common issues occur with combustion vents.

To work effectively, a combustion vent has to draw adequately, which is the natural process that moves hot exhaust gases up and out the exhaust flue or vent. Another way to say it is that the vent needs to have a good draft. The effectiveness of the draft is influenced by several factors.

These factors include:

  • thermal buoyancy, which is the tendency of hot air to rise. The hotter the gas is, the faster it will rise;
  • unrestricted flow, which means that the exhaust flue can’t be too small or have too many bends, since these two things slow the flow; and
  • proper length. If a flue is too long, the gases will cool and condensation will form. Condensation can cause corrosion of the sheet metal exhaust flue, as well as the furnace’s components.

An important factor in the quality of the draft is adequate clearance above the roof.  This generally means that the vent should follow either the manufacturer’s installation recommendations or the “2-10 Rule” required by most building code regulations for chimney terminations.  The 2-10 Rule states that combustion vents should terminate at least 2 feet above any part of the highest part of the roof, including the roof itself, within 10 feet.  For example, if a combustion vent is 3 feet away from a dryer vent on a flat roof, the combustion vent should be two feet higher than the dryer vent.  If a combustion vent is on the low part of a sloping roof, the vent must be 2 feet higher than the nearest point of the sloped roof that’s within 10 feet.  So, if you see a vent that doesn’t meet the 2-10 Rule, a qualified HVAC contractor may need to re-install a vent of the proper height.

White deposits on combustion vents or on the roof below them are evidence that excessive condensation has been forming. This can be caused by a vent that:

  • is too long;
  • has too many bends; or
  • has poorly sloped sections that slow the flow of exhaust gases.

If you see this condition on a roof, you should look for similar white deposits on the combustion appliance served by the vent. Poor venting can cause corrosion that may shorten the lifespan of that appliance.

Flashing for Vents
The critical installation that keeps moisture and the elements from entering the roof surface down the side of the vent is called flashing.  Different types of vents require flashing that is appropriate for the type of vent installation, as well as of a compatible material so that it doesn’t cause galvanic corrosion or other issues that will cause the vent or flashing to deteriorate prematurely.  Flashing may need to be on top of roof shingles or below stone tiles; a good roofing contractor who specializes in your roof’s material will know what type of flashing is required and how it should be installed.

Of course, a leak in the attic, or any signs of rust or staining on the vent, flashing or roof is a sign of a problem.  If you do suspect a problem, your first call should be to your home inspector so that he can investigate it before you call a contractor.  Most contractors are honest, but since the contractor has something to sell, and it’s in his best interests to find a problem that he can charge you to fix.  Call your InterNACHI home inspector first; it’s his job to find the problem, not fix it.

Preventing Cracks in Masonry Walls and Foundations

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Regardless of the type of cladding covering the exterior of homes, most homes’ foundations are built using a reinforcing metal structure covered by some kind of concrete or masonry.  There are many green homes and alternative building methods that use wood and other materials, but masonry foundations are the most popular.  If your home has a masonry foundation (including masonry walls), here are some things to know, especially if you notice the development of any defects, cracks, or moisture intrusion in your crawlspace or basement.

Every homeowner should occasionally check the exterior of their home’s foundation, especially if there have been severe weather or geological events, such as heavy rains, flooding, or seismic activity, or nearby construction or industrial work that creates noticeable vibration, such as roadwork, the installation of oil or gas wells or pipeline, etc.

Before looking at the exterior, it’s useful to know which walls are load-bearing and which are not. Usually, this can be done by examining the beams and joists in the basement, crawlspace or attic. Also, note whether the walls are solid masonry or masonry-cavity, non-structural brick, or stone veneer. The overall quality of the building’s construction, and often that of its neighborhood, will be a good indicator of the condition of your home’s masonry.

All exposed masonry should be inspected for the following:

  • cracking;
  • spalling, which is the chipping or flaking of concrete, bricks or other masonry when improper drainage or venting and freeze-thaw weather cycling exists;
  • bowing, which is the term used to describe vertical bulging;
  • sweeping, which is horizontal bulging;
  • leaning; and
  • mortar deterioration.

Masonry Cracks
Although masonry can deform elastically over long periods of time to accommodate small amounts of movement during freeze-thaw cycles, large movements can cause masonry cracking, which may appear along the mortar joints or through the masonry units.

Cracking can result from a variety of problems:

  • differential settlement of the foundation;
  • drying shrinkage (particularly in a concrete block foundation);
  • expansion and contraction due to ambient thermal and moisture variations;
  • improper support over door and window openings, which is the effect of freeze-thaw cycles;
  • the corrosion of iron and steel wall reinforcement;
  • differential movement between building materials;
  • the expansion of salts in the cement mixture;
  • efflorescence,  which is the white powder that forms on the surface of concrete/masonry walls as a result of water evaporation (and a cosmetic issue only); and
  • the bulging or leaning of walls.

Testing
Most common masonry wall cracks are caused by thermal or moisture expansion. Active cracks can be sealed with a flexible sealant.  Inactive cracks may be pointed, which is the process of filling joints between masonry units or bricks with mortar.  Some of this work should be undertaken by a masonry professional.

If there are evident or suspected problems, two methods of testing are sometimes useful for assessing masonry. This first test should be performed by a qualified masonry contractor.  Probe holes can be drilled through the joints or masonry units with a masonry bit and probed with a stiff wire (or a fiber optic camera) to determine a wall’s thickness and the adequacy of its mortar. The probe holes are then patched after the investigation has been completed.

A hammer test can be used to determine the structural soundness of masonry units and their bond to the mortar. In a hammer test, the masonry is tapped lightly with a hammer, and the resonance of the sound produced is evaluated. Individual bricks can be replaced and the mortar re-pointed, as damaged bricks cannot be repaired.  If re-pointing, the new mortar should be of the same composition as the existing mortar to prevent deterioration.

There may be a substantial difference in the masonry walls in buildings built during the last 40 to 50 years compared to those constructed earlier. Walls became thinner as designers began to more effectively exploit the compressive strength of masonry. This was done by using higher-strength masonry materials and mortars. But this change came at the expense of flexibility; as such, today’s masonry walls and foundations are often more brittle than their massive ancestors and, therefore, particularly susceptible to stress-induced damage.  That’s why homeowners should be vigilant with their homeowner maintenance plan by occasionally checking the condition of their home’s foundation, along with any masonry walls.

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