Running your home AC during the winter

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“It’s Hot in Here”

So the cold weather is here… kinda.  Even though we have officially entered winter, there are plenty of winter days here in Oklahoma that will tempt us to turn on the air conditioner.  If it is sunny and 60 outside, chances are it’s heating up well over 75 in your home and that can lead to us feeling a little stuffy.   Add to that some holiday cooking, and we can see that thermostat moving quickly to the 80s.  What to do?

Times Have Changed

Well, back in the day, I know it might be hard to believe, but we would actually open the windows.  That’s right kids!  We opened the windows.  I know that sounds snarky but I really think people have forgotten about this option, much to the enjoyment of your neighborhood HVAC professional.  Also, today’s homes are not really designed for this.  In the early 20th century, homes were built with lots of windows and often had a “whole-house fan” that people would run, with the windows open, to keep everyone reasonably cool.  I’m always happy to tell buyers about this feature when we come across a functional unit.

So, even though we don’t have as many windows, I’m recommending using them next time your home gets stuffy this winter; for the following reasons:

  1. Compressors are designed to run in hot weather.  They are lubricated with summer grade oil.  When you start your AC in the winter you are putting a terrible strain on the compressor and likely shortening its life.  I know you don’t want to buy another AC unit this spring.
  2. Windows left shut and not operated year after year, lose their lubrication, and when I open them at inspections, the springs often do not operate.  The next time you sell a home, you are probably going to be asked to fix that.  Using them frequently will keep them functional or at least remind you to lubricate them occasionally.
  3. Using your windows instead of your AC saves you money — immediately.  Open a couple of windows, and turn your fan to “on” at the thermostat.  It will circulate the stale air, introduce new fresh air, and cool down your home.  It will take a little longer, but you avoid risk of damage to the compressor.  Also, it is a lot cheaper to run a fan than a compressorHome Run Inspections, LLCOklahoma:  405-905-9175Florida:  850-203-3239

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Avoid Frozen Water Lines

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Water as the Enemy

As a home inspector, we often say that “water” is your home’s worst enemy.  Generally we are speaking about the weather shield that includes your roof, walls and windows.  But, water let loose in your home from plumbing can be just as devastating.  Unprotected pipes are susceptible to cold temperatures because water expands when it goes from liquid to solid.  If you have not taken time already, take a few minutes this weekend, before the next cold blast comes through, to go around your home and make sure that you are taking the necessary precautions to avoid a water damage bill. Here are some tips to get your plumbing through the winter in one piece.

Tips

  • Make sure any exposed water pipes are properly insulated.  Insulation alone does not prevent freezing but only slows it down.  Outdoor back flow preventer valves for sprinkler systems should be drained of water and have a plugged in heat tape installed.
  • Water hoses should be disconnected from hose bibs (and stored indoors if possible).  If the hose bibs are not freeze resistant, install an inexpensive foam cap from a hardware store.  I’ve even seen socks wrapped around the bib, tied with a rubber band and covered with a coffee can (don’t laugh; it works!).
  • Locate the main water shut-off valve, usually by the street.  Obtain the proper tool to open the valve vault and turn off the water if you need to in case of an emergency. There is often an interior water shut off valve that may be easier to access.  This information should be in your home inspection report if you have one from Home Run Inspections.

Other Good Ideas

  • Garage doors should be kept closed, especially if there are water supply lines in the garage.  This is often where your hot water tank is located.  You may want to safely place a space heater in the garage on really cold nights.  Remember that your garage ceiling is generally not insulated.
  • Open kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors to allow warmer air to circulate around the plumbing. Be sure to move any harmful cleaners and household chemicals up out of the reach of children.
  • When the weather is very cold outside, let the cold water drip from the faucet served by exposed pipes. Running water through the pipe – even at a trickle – helps prevent pipes from freezing.  Dripping a faucet in the spare bathroom bathtub and the kitchen faucet should do the trick.
  • Keep the thermostat set to the same temperature day and night. By temporarily suspending the use of lower nighttime temperatures, you may incur a higher heating bill, but you can prevent a much more costly repair job if pipes freeze and burst.
  • If you will be going away during cold weather, leave the heat on in your home, set to a temperature no lower than 55° FHome Run Inspections, LLCOklahoma:  405-905-9175

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Bathroom Ventilation Systems

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The Bathroom Ventilation System
Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and damp air to the home’s exterior. A typical system consists of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms, including those with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates.

Fan Function

The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:

  • Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch.
  • A timer switch may be mounted on the wall.
  • A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity.

It’s not always easy to tell whether the bathroom vent fan is operating as it should. Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well.

Bathroom ventilation fans should be periodically checked for dust buildup, which can impede air flow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are also attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Homeowners should regularly clean dirty fan covers to prevent this kind of buildup.

Defects

The following conditions indicate insufficient ventilation in the bathroom:

  • Stains on the bathroom walls and/or ceiling
  • Corrosion of metal parts of the vent system
  • Visible mold on the walls and/or ceiling
  • Peeling paint or wallpaper
  • Frost on the interior of the bathroom window
  • High indoor humidity
  • Improper duct termination

Duct Termination

The most common defect related to the bathroom’s ventilation system is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home’s exterior.

The most common improper terminations locations are:

  • Mid-level in the attic; these are easy to spot.
  • Beneath the insulation in the attic. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed; and under attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home’s exterior.

Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom, so the homeowner or inspector may have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes, poorly installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.

Ducts that leak or terminate in the attic can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moisture-laden air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation and other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health and/or decay problems from mold, or damage to building materials, such as drywall. Moisture buildup also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Mold growth is another undesirable consequence of improperly vented damp air. Even though mold growth may take place primarily in the attic and basement/crawlspace, mold spores can be sucked into the living area of a home by low air pressure, which is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens, and from clothes dryers and heating equipment.

Improper Ventilation

Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that damp air is properly exhausted.

Ventilation ducts must:

  • Terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope
  • Contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry
  • Be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder
  • Be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts encourage condensation
  • Protrude at least several inches from the roof
  • Be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements
  • Be installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations

The following tips are also helpful. Ventilation ducts should:

    • Be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop.
    • Have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.
    • Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors to the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues for family members.

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Crawlspace Safety

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Crawlspace Safety

Crawlspaces are notorious for the nasty discoveries made there by homeowners, inspectors, and home remodelers, and it isn’t hard to figure out why; for one thing, their cool, dark environment attracts undesirable pests and can promote dangerous conditions. And since the crawlspace is mostly unmonitored, hazards can breed there unchecked for a long time. Never enter a crawlspace without wearing protective clothing and having two flashlights (in case the first one stops working).

The following are some of the more common dangers discovered in crawlspaces:

Metal and Wooden Protrusions: Depending on the age of your home, the crawlspace may house some unwelcoming structural protrusions that you may bump your head on or cut your hand on, so proceed with caution. Even if your crawlspace is clean and free of pests, it’s no guarantee that it will also be free of a nail head, bent metal attachment, or joist or beam in an unexpected area. Protect your head by wearing a ball cap or hard hat, and wear gloves to protect your hands.

Pests

Dirt crawlspaces provide the environment that is favored by ants, termites and other insects, and various other pests, including snakes and scorpions, as well as warm-blooded animals looking for a place to nest, such as raccoons, mice and rats. Some of these pests are poisonous; others may attack when startled. Always wear protective clothing and use a strong flashlight to illuminate the space before entering it.

Mold

Just like pests, mold and other types of fungus can grow rapidly in crawlspaces. Mold is a health concern, as well as a cause of wood decay, which may require costly repairs. Airborne mold spores can potentially enter the living space from the crawlspace. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions) and irritants. In some cases, they can produce potentially toxic substances called mycotoxins. Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, a runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis).

Asbestos Insulation

Do not disturb asbestos! The microscopic fibers that cause illness become airborne when the insulation is handled or disturbed. If it appears to be in good shape, it might not be a problem at all. Prolonged exposure to asbestos insulation can cause mesothelioma, which is a cancer of the lining of the chest and the abdominal cavity, as well as asbestosis, in which the lungs become scarred with fibrous tissue.

Standing Water or Sewage

Dirt crawlspaces are susceptible to water seepage, which can create a host of problems, such microbial growth, odors, damage to stored belongings, and risk of electrical shock.

Improper Wiring

Look for loose wiring, open junction boxes, or wiring that has become loose and fallen to the floor.

If you discover any of these issues, contact a licensed electrical contractor for repairs and possible updates to your system.
Source of Energy Waste: Traditionally, crawlspaces have been vented to prevent problems with moisture, and most building codes require vents to aid in removing moisture from the crawlspace. However, many building professionals now recognize that ventilated crawlspaces allow a great deal of heat loss in the winter and moisture intrusion in the summer from damp air.  Have your InterNACHI inspector evaluate your crawlspace and recommend options for preventing energy loss in this area.
Structural Collapse: If you have reason to suspect that the home or foundation is unstable, especially following an earthquake or flood, it might be dangerous to enter its crawlspace. It’s easy to become pinned, trapped or even crushed inside unstable crawlspaces. Make sure someone knows that you’re going into the crawlspace before you enter it.

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Drainage Problems

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Soil Drainage

One of the first things I check on a home inspection is the lot slope around the home.  As a home buyer, drainage problems should be one of the first things you look for as well.

Making sure that your property is sloped to allow proper drainage can mean the difference between a trouble-free rainy season and a flooded basement a few times a year.  Unwanted moisture intrusion—even at a level not serious enough to cause interior flooding—can create insidious problems that will be difficult to completely eliminate, such as weakened structural elements, mold growth, and other damage and health hazards.

Most problems with moisture in basements and crawlspaces are caused by poor site drainage. The ground should slope away from window wells, exterior basement stairs, and other means of egress. The bottom of each of these areas should be sloped to a drain. Each drain should have piping that connects it to a storm water drainage system (if there is one) or that drains to either a discharge at a lower grade or into a sump pit that collects and discharges the water away from the building. 

Rain

During the next heavy rainstorm without lightning, grab an umbrella and go outside. Walk around your house and look around at the roof and property. A rainstorm is the perfect time to see how the roof, downspouts and grading are performing. Observe the drainage patterns of your entire property, as well as the property of your neighbor. The ground around your house should slope away from all sides. Downspouts, surface gutters and drains should be directing water away from the foundation.

One important maintenance task is to monitor and maintain the drains and piping. Drains and piping should be open and clear of leaves, earth and debris.

House on a Hillside  

Where a building is situated on a hillside, it is more difficult to slope the ground away from the building on all sides. On the high-ground side of the building, the slope of the ground toward the building could be interrupted by a surface drainage system that collects and disposes of rainwater runoff. Swales can be used to direct surface water away from the foundation. There are two general types of surface drainage systems: an open system, consisting of a swale (often referred to as a ditch), sometimes with a culvert at its end to collect and channel water away; and a closed system, consisting of gutters with catch basins.

Solutions

If you discover any issues with the way water drains around and away from your home, you can contact a landscaping professional for advise.  Contacting a guttering specialist may be in order as well.  As with most repair issues I come across as a home inspector, ignoring the problem is only going to cost you more in the long run.  Water is arguably your homes greatest enemy so the next time it rains, pay attention to how effectively your abode takes the enemy away.

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Landscaping

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Landscaping

One of my first task on a home inspection is to inspect the roof and the exterior of the home.  Consequently, I often have to mention overhanging tree limbs, shrubs, or another aspect of the landscape rubbing up against the exterior of the home as a needed repair.

Well-maintained landscaping and other improvements are important for the enjoyment of a healthy and durable property.

Plants, Trees & Shrubs

Check the location and condition of all trees and shrubbery. Those that are overgrown should be pruned or trimmed. Where trees or bushes have overgrown, complete removal may be necessary. Trees need to be trimmed.  Overhanging branches should not interfere with a chimney’s draft, be too close to utility wires, or deposit leaves and twigs on the roof or inside gutters and drains. Trees and shrubbery that are very close to exterior walls or roofs can cause damage. They can make it difficult to perform homeowner maintenance, inspections and repairs. Branches around the perimeter of the house should be pruned back. Tree roots under concrete walks can cause damage. Roots are usually exposed near the surface and can be cut back. Tree roots can cause a home’s foundation to crack by pushing against it from the outside. If you have any of these issues, consider hiring an arborist. An arborist is a specialist in the cultivation and care of trees and shrubs, including tree surgery, the diagnosis, treatment, and prevention of tree diseases, and the control of pests.

Find a certified arborist in the U.S. at http://www.nachi.org/go/arborists and http://www.nachi.org/go/caforests in Canada

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Fireplace Safety

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The Fireplace

I inspect a lot of homes with some sort of fireplace.  So many fireplaces today are merely decorative and can be started with a flip of a switch, but there are many homes purchased by “first time home owners” that have masonry fireplaces designed to burn “solid fuel”, meaning wood logs or fire logs.  Fireplace safety should be job one before starting and managing a real wood fire. Since this seems to be a fading art, so I put together a quick list of tips for those home owners out there who are planning on starting up the fireplace this year.

Safety Tips

  • Never use flammable liquids to start a fire.
  • Use only seasoned hardwood. Soft, damp wood accelerates creosote buildup. In pellet stoves, burn only dry, seasoned wood pellets.
  • Build small fires that burn completely and produce less smoke.
  • Never burn cardboard boxes, trash, or other debris in your fireplace or wood stove.
  • When building a fire, place logs at the rear of the fireplace on an adequate supporting grate.
  • Never leave a fire in the fireplace unattended. Extinguish the fire before going to bed or leaving the house.
  • Allow ashes to cool before disposing of them. Place ashes in a tightly covered metal container, and keep the ash container at least 10 feet away from your home and any other nearby buildings. Never empty the ash directly into a trashcan. Douse and saturate the ashes with water.

As a home inspector, I always advise buyers to have there fireplace inspected by a professional before the first use of the season.  It only takes a minute for a romantic evening to turn into a three alarm disaster.

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Fall Home Maintenance

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When Fall arrives its time once again for Fall Home Maintenance.  Here is a quick list to get you started:

  • Have a Licensed HVAC Pro Service Heating System
  • Replace HVAC Filter
  • Protect Exposed Plumbing from Freezing Temperatures
  • Run Gas-powered Lawn Equipment until the Fuel is Gone
  • Test Emergency Generator
  • Have a Certified Chimney Sweep Inspect & Clean Flues & Check Fireplace Dampers
  • Remove Bird Nests from Chimney Flues & Outdoor Electrical Fixtures
  • Seal Air Leaks
  • Clean Gutters
  • Inspect Roof
  • Inspect Gas Space Heaters
  • Set Up a Humidifier
  • Repair Walkways, Seal Cracks
  • Check Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Detectors
  • Check Fire Extinguishers & Fire Escape Plan
  • General Clean-Up
  • Prep Lawn
  • Touch Up Exterior Paint
  • Clean Carpeting

Remember to take a moment before starting machinery or climbing a ladder to think about safety. A few hours of preparation can save you and your family some misery this winter, not to mention some money

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Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

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Floor Vents

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Old School

I don’t think I have come across a newly built home with the HVAC ductwork, or floor vents in the concrete floor.  That’s not to say builders do not do that any more,  but I think it’s fair to say they avoid that practice if possible.

It was a common practice in the 1970s and 1980 to place the homes ductwork in the sand and soil prior to the pouring of the homes slab.  I actually worked for a heat and air company while in college and did several of these myself.  The system was designed to last a very long time, but even with the efforts we took, time often takes its toll on various aspects of these systems.

The Problems

The most common defect I see on “in concrete duct work” as a Home Inspector is rusted, deteriorating floor boots and poor air flow at various locations in the home.  If the problem is minor, replacement of floor boots is all that is recommended.  If most or all of the boots show deterioration and or accumulation of sand, I recommend further evaluation by an HVAC professional with a duct scoping.

With the HVAC being one of the most important systems in your home, I recommend all buyers and realtors lift up a floor register or two if they find the perfect home that happens to have in floor duct.  I inspected a home yesterday in Edmond that was built in the 90s and the boots looked like they were installed yesterday, so you really never know what you will find.

Depending on the extent of any damage found, the repairs could range from $200 to $8000.  Repairs could be as simple as replacing a couple of floor boots to having to install a whole new system, moving all the duct work to the attic or other alternative location.  There are so many different types of home configurations the solutions are numerous

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Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

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Upgrading 2-Prong Outlets

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Upgrading

Two prong receptacles, often found by an inspector in an older home, that are connected to two-wire cables, do not have the ground wires, which protect people and electrical devices in case of a ground fault. Upgrading 2-Prong Outlets to a new three-prong or GFCI receptacle in the same receptacle box without any rewiring is possible as long as the box itself is grounded.

Metal boxes attached to armored, or BX cable, which is a type of wiring commonly found in old homes, are typically found to be properly grounded. The armored or BX cable’s flexible metal jacket serves the same purpose as a dedicated ground wire.

If the box is not ­grounded, a GFCI can be installed or an electrician can be hired to fix the wiring.

GFCI-Ground Fault Circuit Interruption

The image to the right is a GFCI that was installed to replace the old, 2-prong ungrounded wall receptacle in an older home. This GFCI must be labeled as a GFCI without an equipment ground.

Simply replacing an older 2-prong outlet with a 3-prong outlet can be hazardous, because the receptacle will appear to be functional with a ground, but in fact there isn’t one. If someone were to plug a faulty 3-prong device into that “fake” grounded receptacle, a shock hazard is very likely. Electricity moving through the device casing would create an energized surface from which a person could be electrocuted.

Another problem with replacing ungrounded 2-prong receptacles with 3-prong one is in relation to surge-protection device, which relies on a solid ground to route any transient activity. The ungrounded receptacle would not be able to protect the device from a surge.

It is permissible to replace a 2-prong ungrounded outlet with a 3-prong GFCI outlet.  But, it must be labeled as “GFCI Protected Outlet, No Equipment Ground.” Even though there is not a grounding conductor, there is still some protection against shock provided by the GFCI.

Play it Safe

The bottom line is, play it safe.  To do electrical receptacle upgrades in a manner that will provide the most protection to the inhabitants of the home, have a licensed electrician who has the proper equipment and knowledge to do it right make the upgrades.

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