Tag Archive for: home safety

Gas Wall Heater

July 2, 2021/0 Comments/in Home Inspections, Home Safety/by Scott Price

Gas Wall Heater

One of the more common features is a Gas Wall Heater in a bathroom. These units provide a nice and toasty bathroom in the winter, but they present a significant hazard to the resident. These ventless appliances put carbon monoxide flue gases into the room. In addition, these bathrooms rarely had a good ventilation system other than the window which is often either not used, sealed shut, or missing due to later home modifications. This creates a very unsafe situation that should be addressed. A similar type of heater might also be found in a garage or workshop.

Our Home Inspection Report recommends the removal of this type of heater. An alternative to removing the heater is to have it disconnected from the gas source. Once disconnected, the unit is safe and looks vintage groovy. I’m sure one could find some unique ways to decorate it on Pinterest or some other social media outlet.

Pass or Fail

People often ask me “what are the things that fail a home inspection?”. Well, truth be told, home inspections are not a pass or fail inspection. They are designed to provide the buyer with a detailed report about the condition of the home they are purchasing. A home is full of Systems. As Home Inspectors, we endeavor to educate buyers about those systems.

If your Home Inspector inspects a classic home for you, built pre-1975, you may come across a lot of outdated but very vintage appliances and systems such as a vintage ventless wall heater. Being the owner of a multi-inspector company since 2015 and doing an average of over 800 inspections per year exposes our inspectors and company to a lot of novel features we need to be able to inspect and provide accurate information on.

Thanks for stopping by our blog. Check back often, and feel free to pass on our information or reach out to us with any questions

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Anti-Tip Bracket for the Free-Standing Range

March 22, 2021/0 Comments/in Home Inspections, Home Safety/by Scott Price

People often wonder “what do they look for in a home inspection?”. Well, as home inspectors, we inspect all the major systems of the home. A very important section of any Home Inspection Report is the Appliance section. An easily installed safety device called the anti-tip bracket often shows up in the home inspector’s list of recommendations or deficiencies.

What Is It?

The anti-tip bracket should be installed on all free-standing ranges. All new free-standing ranges come with this device along with instructions on how to install it properly. In fact, we often find it stored in a kitchen drawer! A properly installed anti-tip bracket will prevent the range from tilting forward and tipping over.

Why Have It?

There are many scenarios in which this disaster could take place. One of the most common could occur when pulling a large, heavy meal forward on the oven rack such as a holiday turkey. This added weight could cause the range to tilt forward and tip over, endangering anyone in the immediate area. Other scenarios include a child crawling onto an opened oven door or an elderly person falling forward while trying to lift a cooked dish.

What To Do

As home inspectors, we call out deficiencies like this all the time. We do so because we know the importance of these safety features. Install the anti-tip bracket on your free-standing range immediately if it is missing. You can buy the anti-tip bracket in most hardware stores, but be sure to check your kitchen drawers for it first; it may be lurking there! The anti-tip bracket can be easily installed using items often found in the most basic tool kits: a pencil, a measuring tape, and a screw driver or power drill. If desired, a handyman or appliance installation & repair professional can get the job done for you.

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Nightlights

August 30, 2018/in Home Safety/by Scott Price

Nightlights are small, low-powered electrical light source placed for comfort or convenience in indoor areas that become dark at night.

Facts and Figures

Before they were powered electrically, nightlights were usually long-burning candles placed in fireproof metal cups, known as tealights in some countries. (Tealights in the U.S. refer to very short and wide candles that can be purchased within or without an aluminum tin cup that are commonly used inside a decorative glass holder. They are also known as votive candles.)
There are roughly 90 million nightlights purchased each year in the United States. In 2001 alone, more than 600,000 of them were recalled by manufacturers for safety reasons.
Defective nightlights can cause fires, burns and electrocution.

Uses

Nightlights are typically installed to create a sense of security and to alleviate fears of the dark, especially for children. They also illuminate the general layout of a room without causing the eyestrain created by a standard light, helping to prevent tripping down stairs and over objects. This is an important safety measure for older adults, for whom falls are the leading cause of injury-related deaths, according to the National Association for Home Care and Hospice. Nightlights may also be used to mark an emergency exit.

Types

A wide variety of nightlights is available to homeowners; bulbs vary from incandescent to energy-efficient options, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs), neon lamps, and electroluminescent bulbs. Some of these devices are equipped with a light-sensitive switch that activates the light only when it’s dark enough for them to be required, saving electricity and the effort needed to manually turn them on and off. Some designs also incorporate a rechargeable battery so they will continue to function during power outages.

Hazards

Nightlights present the following hazards:

Nightlights can become excessively hot, causing them to melt and pose a risk of fire if they come in contact with flammable materials, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). The CPSC receives roughly 10 reports annually of fires that were caused when nightlights ignited toilet paper, pillows, bedspreads and other flammable materials.
A falling blanket or pillow case can start a fire when they come in contact with a hot nightlight.
Place nightlights a safe distance from bed coverings, curtains, and other potentially flammable objects and materials. Nightlights should not covered with tape, cardboard or any other material that might cause them to overheat.
So-called “bubble” nightlights are special, decorative nightlights that contain a dangerous chemical called methylene chloride. If the vial breaks, the unit should be thrown away immediately and precautions should be taken to avoid skin contact with the leaking chemical; and
electric shock. Nightlights pose the risk of electric shock when used outdoors or in locations that may become wet, such near sinks, hot tubs, in garages, and at covered patios. They should never be plugged into an extension cord, surge-protector strip, multiple-outlet strip, or other movable types of receptacles. Electric shock is also possible if the nightlight overheats and melts.

Additional Tips

Plug the nightlight into an exposed wall outlet where it will be well-ventilated.
Do not repair any nightlight yourself. Only replace the bulb.
Avoid installing nightlights in locations where they might be exposed to excessive sunlight, as UV rays will degrade the plastic.
Never let children handle nightlights. If you have small children, avoid purchasing or installing a nightlight decorated with cute or funny figures to which they may be attracted and that may be easy for them to reach.Scott Price-Certified Master Inspector
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Radon

July 21, 2018/in Blog, Home Safety/by Scott Price

What is it?

Radon is a cancer-causing, radioactive gas. You cannot see, smell or taste. But, it still may be a problem in your home. Although it is a naturally occurring gas in our environment, it is also the second leading cause of lung cancer deaths in the U.S., according to the U.S. Surgeon General. Nearly one out of every 15 homes is estimated to have elevated levels. The Surgeon General and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency recommend testing all houses. Millions of Americans have already tested their homes for this gas, and you should, too.

Let your InterNACHI inspector test your home.

You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local or neighborhood radon measurements. Do not rely on radon test results from other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your own home. Homes that are next to each other can have different radon levels. Carbon Monoxide Detectors and other common devices in homes do not pick up this gas. The only way to find out what your home’s radon level is have a Radon test performed. Your InterNACHI inspector uses special interference-proof air-canister testing devices that will measure the radon levels in different areas of the home over a limited period of time, which will help determine whether installing a mitigation system is recommended. A radon mitigation system can aid in continuously and automatically filtering outdoor ground air that enters the home, which will help reduce your home’s radon level.

Water Contamination

If the results of your Indoor Air Quality test show elevated levels of contaminants and your water comes from a private well, have your inspector test your water as well. The devices and procedures for testing your home’s water supply are different from those used for measuring levels in indoor air. If your water tests positive, this can add to your risk of exposure because the radon can be released into the air during showering and while performing household tasks using water.

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Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

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Bathtubs and Showers

July 18, 2018/in Blog, Home Safety, Homeowner Tools/by Scott Price

Bathtub Shower Combo

Bathtubs
Bathtubs are made from many different types of materials, including enameled cast-iron, porcelain-enameled steel, and plastic. Plastic tubs are made from materials including ABS, PVC, fiberglass, fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, and cultured-marble acrylic. Bathtubs that are equipped with shower fixtures should be manufactured with slip-resistant surfaces. Bathtubs should have a drainage outlet (tailpiece) with a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. Every tub should be equipped with a stopper. The bathtub should have an overflow outlet installed. The overflow prevents flooding if the tub is being filled while unattended, and prevents overflow of the water when a person enters a tub that is full.

Fire-Resistance
Bathtubs made of plastic are tested for fire ignition. They are made with fire-resistant chemicals to reduce their fuel contribution in a house fire, or an accidental exposure to a plumber’s torch.

Large Bathtub Loads
Some bathtubs are so large that they can accommodate more than one person at a time. These larger bathtubs may need special and additional structural support underneath them to adequately support the load.
A 3×4-foot bathtub may have a capacity to hold 200 gallons or more. The weight of the bathtub, water, and occupants may total over 1 ton, considering:

200 pounds for the bathtub
+ 1,600 pounds of water
+ 350 pounds for two people
= 2,150 pounds

A very large tub may cause structural problems because live-loading for a typical residential home is 40 pounds per square foot. The live load for a 3×4-foot occupied tub may be assumed to be only 480 pounds, but may weigh over 2,000 pounds while it is in use.

Maintenance Tips
The homeowner should make sure that the tub is free of cracks, rust and other staining, and that all edges, gaps and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix.

Showers
Plastic, pre-fabricated shower units are constructed of various synthetic materials, including ABS, PVC, gel-coated fiberglass-reinforced plastic, cultured marble, cast-filled fiberglass, polyester, cultured marble acrylic, and acrylic. These shower units are impregnated with fire-retardant chemicals to reduce the fuel contribution during a fire, and protection against an accidental burn by a plumber’s torch.

The showerhead height is not typically regulated by building codes, but the head is commonly installed 70 to 80 inches above the shower floor.

Shower Water Pipes
Water-supply pipes from the shower valve to the showerhead outlet — referred to as the shower riser pipes — whether exposed or not, must be firmly attached to a structural component to prevent the pipes from leaking caused by stress fractures or joint failures. Movement of the showerhead may move the riser piping, possibly causing failure of the piping. The risers must be firmly secured.

The common practice for installing the riser pipe is to place a drop-ear elbow at the top of the riser pipe. The elbow has two wing connections. They can be screwed to a structural backing board, such as a 2×4. A pipe strap can be used instead of a drop-ear elbow. When the riser is exposed, the manufacturer will typically provide a strap or attachment device to match the finish of the fixture and pipe. The strap or attachment device should be firmly secured to a structural component.

Shower Outlets
The waste outlet for a shower should have minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. The shower outlet should have a strainer that is at least 3 inches in diameter, with dimensional openings in the strainer of at least a 1/4-inch. The strainer should be removable.

Shower Area
A shower compartment should have an interior cross-sectional area of at least 900 square inches. This will allow an average-sized adult to clean the lower body while bending over. A shower that’s any smaller would be inadequately sized. Shower compartments should be at least 30 inches in minimum dimension. This measurement is based on the movement of an adult body inside a shower and measured from the finished interior dimension of the compartment, excluding fixture valves, showerheads, soap dishes and grab bars. There are exceptions for showers having fold-down seats, and those with compartments at least 25 inches wide and 1,300 square inches in cross-sectional area.

The exception allows for a shower with one dimension being 25 inches, provided the compartment has at least 1,300 square inches of cross-sectional area. This is useful to contractors and DIY homeowners who remove an old bathtub and install a standup shower fixture in the same space.

Shower Walls
Showers and bathtubs with installed showerheads should be finished with a non-absorbent surface that shall extend to a height of not less than 6 feet above the floor level of the room, or 70 inches above the shower floor. It should be constructed of smooth, corrosion-resistant and non-absorbent materials to protect the structural components from moisture damage. The gypsum or cement wallboard behind ceramic tiles of a shower wall should be water-resistant. The water-resistant material is not required in the rest of the bathroom, although it is a common practice to use water-resistant gypsum wallboard in other areas of the bathroom because of the moisture levels.

Shower Access and Egress Opening
Many injuries in a home are related to accidents in the bathtub or shower. The minimum opening requirements for access and egress allows an adult enough room to safely step into and exit the shower area without having to twist or turn through a narrow opening. The shower opening (or access and egress opening) should be at least 22 inches of clear and unobstructed finish-width. The 22-inch width is based on the approximate shoulder width of an average-sized adult, and provides comfortable access to service the valves, showerheads and drain. It allows for emergency response and rescue access, and emergency egress.

Shower Floors
The shower floor surface must be watertight with smooth, corrosion-resistant, non-absorbent, waterproof materials. Joints between the floor and walls of the shower must be sealed or flashed to prevent water penetration. Ideally, there should be some type of slip-resistant floor surface. The shower floor structure needs proper support by a smooth and structurally sound base. The base of the shower floor should be designed to support both dead (structural) and live (people and water) loads.

Shower pans and liners are installed under and around showers to prevent moisture intrusion from getting into the structural supports under and behind the shower enclosure. They must meet specific standards for material, installation and size in order to support both dead and live loads.

Shower Glazing
Glass doors enclosing the shower should be made of safety glazing. If a window is installed in the shower, the window should be made of safety glazing to provide protection. If a person slips or falls inside the shower, s/he may be seriously injured by broken glass if the glass is not made of safety glazing. The safety glazing should be correctly labeled by being permanently marked in a corner, legible and visible after installation, and indoor applications should be marked “indoor use only.”

Maintenance Tips
Similar to other bathroom fixtures, the homeowner should make sure that the shower is free of cracks, rust and other staining, and that all edges, gaps and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix. Additionally, if the glazing for the showers doors is damaged, it should be replaced, as cracked glazing can break without notice and cause serious injuries

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Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

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Indoor Air Quality

July 3, 2018/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Indoor air quality is generally worse than most people believe, but there are things you can do about it.

Some Quick Facts:

Indoor air quality can be worse than that of outdoor air.
Problems can arise from moisture, insects, pets, appliances, radon, materials used in household products and furnishings, smoke, and other sources.
Effects range from minor annoyances to major health risks.
Remedies include ventilation, cleaning, moisture control, inspections, and following manufacturers’ directions when using appliances and products.
Many homes are built or remodeled more tightly, without regard to the factors that assure fresh and healthy indoor air circulation. Many homes today also contain furnishings, appliances and products that can affect indoor air quality.

Signs of indoor air quality problems include:

Unusual and noticeable odors
Stale or stuffy air and a noticeable lack of air movement
Dirty or faulty central heating or air-conditioning equipment
Damaged flue pipes and chimneys
Unvented combustion air sources for fossil-fuel appliances
Excessive humidity
Presence of molds and mildew
Adverse health reactions after remodeling, weatherizing, bringing in new furniture, using household and hobby products
Feeling noticeably healthier outside

Common Sources of Air Quality Problems:
Poor indoor air quality can arise from many sources. At least some of the following contaminants can be found in almost any home:

Moisture and biological pollutants, such as molds, mildew, dust mites, animal dander, and cockroaches
High humidity levels, inadequate ventilation, and poorly maintained humidifiers and air conditioners
Combustion products, including carbon monoxide from unvented fossil-fuel space heaters, unvented gas stoves and ovens, and back-drafting from furnaces and water heaters
Formaldehyde from durable-press draperies and other textiles, particleboard products, such as cabinets and furniture framing, and adhesives used in composite wood furniture and upholstery
Radon, which is a radioactive gas from the soil and rock beneath and around the home’s foundation, groundwater wells, and some building materials
Household products, such as paints, solvents, air fresheners, hobby supplies, dry-cleaned clothing, aerosol sprays, adhesives, and fabric additives used in carpeting and furniture, which can release volatile organic compounds (VOCs);
asbestos, which is found in most homes more than 20 years old. Sources include deteriorating, damaged and disturbed pipe insulation, fire retardant, acoustical ceiling tiles, and floor tiles
Lead from lead-based paint dust, which is created when removing paint by sanding, scraping or burning
Particulates from dust and pollen, fireplaces, wood stoves, kerosene heaters, and unvented gas space heaters
Tobacco smoke, which produces particulates, combustion products and formaldehyde

Tips for Homeowners:

Ask about formaldehyde content before buying furniture, cabinets and draperies.
Promptly clean and dry water-damaged carpet, or remove it altogether.
Vacuum regularly, especially if you have pets, and consider using area rugs instead of wall-to-wall carpeting. Rugs are easier to remove and clean, and the floor underneath can also be easily cleaned.
Eliminate unwanted moisture intrusion by checking for sources (such as holes and cracks in the basement and other areas, and leaks from appliances), and by using a dehumidifier.
Open windows and use fans to maintain fresh air with natural and mechanical air circulation.
Always open the flue damper before using the fireplace. This will also prevent carbon-monoxide poisoning.
If your air conditioner has a water tray, empty and clean it often during the cooling season.
If you smoke, smoke outdoors and away from any windows and doors.
Use the range vent above your stove whenever you cook.
Use the bathroom vent whenever you use the bathroom.
Don’t leave vehicles or lawn care equipment running in your garage. Make sure the door leading from the home to the garage has a door sweep to help keep out vapors.

Your InterNACHI home inspector can recommend more ways to help you maintain healthy indoor air quality for you and your family

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Moisture Intrusion: Part 2 of 2

February 7, 2018/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

How does moisture get into the house?

Homeowners should have a basic understanding of how moisture may enter a home and where problems are commonly found.

Moisture or water vapor moves into a house in the following ways:

Air infiltration: Air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement through a building’s cavities. Air naturally moves from high-pressure areas to lower ones by the easiest path possible, such as a hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by air currents is very fast—in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute. Replacement air will infiltrate through the building envelope unless unintended air paths are carefully and permanently sealed.
Diffusion through building materials: Most building materials slow moisture diffusion to a large degree, although they never stop it completely.
Leaks from the roof, such as those caused by aging materials needing repair or replacement, storm damage, or deteriorated or unsealed areas around a chimney, skylight, or other roof penetration
Plumbing leaks
Flooding, which can be caused by seepage from runoff or rising groundwater. It may be seasonal or catastrophic; and
household activities, including bathing, cooking, dishwashing, and washing clothes.
Indoor plants, too, may be a significant source of high levels of indoor humidity.

Oklahoma home inspectors know that excess humidity that isn’t allowed to dissipate through adequate ventilation can build up into condensation, which can lead to moisture problems indoors.

Monitoring indoor humidity, introducing fresh air, providing adequate ventilation, and performing regular, seasonal home maintenance will help homeowners monitor the different areas of the home that may harbor unwanted moisture intrusion and all of the problems it can introduce

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Barbecue Safety

August 1, 2017/in Blog, Home Safety/by sherineprice

Barbecue Safety

When barbeque season rolls around, homeowners should heed the following safety precautions in order to keep their families and property safe. Regardless of the type of grill you have, there are risks for improper use.

Grill Types

Propane grills present an enormous fire hazard, as the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is aware of more than 500 fires that result annually from their misuse or malfunction.
Charcoal grills pose a serious poisoning threat due to the venting of carbon monoxide (CO). The CPSC estimates that 20 people die annually from accidentally ingesting CO from charcoal grills. These grills can also pose a serious fire hazard, especially by using excessive lighter fluid, failing to monitor the grill while in use, or improperly disposing of ash.
Electric grills are probably safer than propane and charcoal grills, but safety precautions need to be used with them, as well.

Safety Recommendations for General Grill Use

Always make sure that the grill is used in a safe place, where kids and pets won’t touch or bump into it. Keep in mind that the grill will still be hot after you finish cooking, and anyone coming into contact with it could be burned.
If you use a grill lighter, make sure you don’t leave it lying around where children can reach it. They will quickly learn how to use it.
Keep you grill away from siding while it is in use and hot. As home inspectors, we see the results of not following this recommendation all the time.
Never leave the grill unattended, as this is generally when accidents happen.
Keep a fire extinguisher or garden hose nearby.
Ensure that the grill is completely cooled before moving it or placing it back in storage.
Ensure that the grill is only used on a flat surface that cannot burn, and well away from any shed, trees and shrubs.
Clean out the grease and other debris in the grill periodically, and scrape the grill rack to remove baked-on food.
Be sure to check the unit for rust and other signs of deterioration.
Don’t wear loose clothing that might catch fire while you’re cooking.
Use long-handled barbecue tools and flame-resistant oven mitts.
Keep alcoholic beverages away from the grill; they are flammable!

In summary, homeowners should exercise caution when using any kind of grill, as they can harm life and property in numerous ways.

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

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Serving: Oklahoma City, Norman, Yukon, Edmond, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

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Lead in Drinking Water

June 29, 2017/in Blog, Home Safety/by sherineprice

Lead in Drinking Water

Lead in drinking water has been determined to be a significant health hazard if ingested, especially by children. Lead damages the brain and nervous system, adversely affects behavior and learning, slows growth, and causes problems related to hearing, pregnancy, high blood pressure, the nervous system, memory and concentration.

Lead in drinking water is a direct result of it being part of the plumbing system itself. Lead solder was used in pipe fittings in houses constructed prior to 1988. Lead has been used in plumbing fixtures, such as faucets. And in some older homes, the service water pipe from the main in the street to the house is made of this heavy metal.

The transfer of lead into water is determined primarily by exposure, which is the length of time that water is in contact with lead. Two other factors that affect the transfer are water temperature (hot water dissolves lead quicker than cold water) and water acidity (“soft” water is slightly corrosive and reacts with lead).

The only way to find out whether or not this substance in the homes water is to have it tested by an approved laboratory. As home inspectors in oklahoma, we’ve been performing this test for inspections for nearly a decade. If there is evidence of lead in the system, consider having your home’s water tested for lead. If the house has a water filter, check to see if it is certified to remove lead.

For more information on lead in drinking water, call the Environmental Protection Agency’s Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 800-462-4791, or visit the website of the EPA Office of Water at www.nachi.org/go/epasafewater

Get a home test at Lowes

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Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

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Serving: Oklahoma City, Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

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Lead-based Paint

May 15, 2017/in Home Safety/by sherineprice

Lead-based Paint

If ingested, lead can lead to a variety of health problems, especially for children, including brain damage and other serious issues. As home inspectors in Oklahoma, we can test for lead based paint at the time of your home inspection.

Lead-based paint may be a hazard when found on surfaces that children can chew or that get a lot of wear and tear, such as windows and window sills, doors and door frames, stairs, railings, banisters, porches and fences. Lead from paint chips that are visible and lead dust that is not always visible can both be serious hazards. Lead dust can form when lead-based paint is dry-scraped, dry-sanded, or heated. Dust also forms when painted surfaces bump or rub together, such as when windows open and close. Lead chips and dust can get on surfaces and objects that people touch. Settled lead dust can re-enter the air when people vacuum, sweep or walk through it.

In 1978, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) set the legal limit of lead in most types of paint to a trace amount. As a result, homes built after 1978 should be nearly free of lead-based paint. In 1996, the U.S. Congress passed the final phase of the Residential Lead-Based Paint Hazard Reduction Act, Title X, which mandates that real estate agents, sellers and landlords disclose the known presence of lead-based paint in homes built prior to 1978.

Lead-based paint that is in good condition and out of the reach of children is usually not a hazard. Peeling, chipping, chalking or cracking lead-based paint is a hazard and needs immediate attention.

If the house is thought to contain lead-based paint, consider having a qualified professional check it for lead hazards. This is done by means of a paint inspection that will identify the lead content of every painted surface and a risk assessment that will determine whether there are any sources of serious lead exposure (such as peeling paint and lead dust). The risk assessment will also identify actions to take to address these hazards.

The U.S. federal government has standards for inspectors and risk assessors. Some states may also have standards in place. Call your local housing authority for help with locating a qualified professional. Do-it-yourself home tests should not be the only method you use before embarking on a rehabilitation project or to ensure your family’s safety. For more information on lead-based paint, consult the HUD Office of Lead Hazard Control website at www.nachi.org/go/epalead

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Tag Archive for: home safety

Gas Wall Heater

Pass or Fail

What Is It?

Why Have It?

What To Do

Facts and Figures

Uses

Types

Hazards

What is it?

Let your InterNACHI inspector test your home.

Water Contamination

Barbecue Safety

Grill Types

Lead in Drinking Water

Lead-based Paint

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma Service Areas

Certified Master Inspector