Home Run Inspections, LLC

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Proper Roof Drainage

March 7, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, On-Going Home Maintenance, Spring Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

When the Rain Comes

When rainy season is just around the corner in your neck of the woods, you need to be thinking about where all that water is going to go. Make sure your home’s roof has proper roof drainage. When it’s doing its job properly, it will easily route water away from your home and foundation.

Take a Look

Next time you are outside your home with some good daylight, take a look at the surfaces you can see from the ground. Make sure there are no trees or branches withing 5 feet of your roofs surface. Also look for any debris that may have accumulated over the winter. If you see either, make a plan to remove both safely as soon as possible. A little money spent now on a handyman could save you big bucks down the road.

Guttering

Guttering is one of the best ways to channel water where you want it to go. While cleaning out the gutters may not be everyone’s favorite home-maintenance task, gutters filled with debris will not drain properly. Ice dams can form in freezing weather, which can essentially shut down your roof’s entire drainage system, possibly forcing unwanted moisture in through your roof and attic. Also, if runoff from the roof is allowed to discharge too close to the home’s foundation, either because of neglected gutter maintenance or even improper system installation, serious structural problems can develop that can compromise the stability of the entire home. That’s why it’s essential that you monitor and maintain your roof-drainage system.

Installation

The most common roof-drainage system in residential construction is gutters hung from the roof edge attached to downspouts. The gutters may be open or covered on top, with seams, or seamless. The gutters should be connected to downspouts that direct water away from the home’s foundation. The downspout may lead down to a concrete splash block that prevents water from draining directly into the soil next to the foundation.

The gutter problems you discover may be related to the materials from which the gutters are made, the quality of the installation, environmental conditions, or a combination of all three.

Check back for more information on keeping the water away from your home

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Oklahoma Earthquakes

March 4, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, On-Going Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Before an Earthquake

At the writing of this article, Social Media is blowing up with post about the rash of large earthquakes most of us have experienced lately. Last I checked, we have had 7 today alone. One thing I have not seen is how to prepare you home and loved ones for these now daily occurrences.

So, next time you are out running errands, be thinking about items on this list to gather. Next time you sit down with your family, take a moment to talk about these steps:

Have earthquake supplies on hand, including enough food (good options are canned water-packed meats; high protein breakfast or granola bars; canned or dried fruit; and canned or powdered milk), water (1 gallon per person per day) and paper products for supplies for at least 72 hours; medications you might need and personal hygiene kits; pet food; baby supplies; heavy boots and layers of extra clothing; blankets, sleeping bags; freshly stocked first-aid kit; flashlights; portable radio.
Move beds away from windows and glass skylights, which could shatter.
Remove or brace heavy pictures or shelves hanging above beds.
Secure top heavy furniture, bookcases or china cabinets to studs in walls.
Place emergency power failure lights in hallways, bathrooms and bedrooms.
Secure cabinet doors with latches.
Attach any heavy objects suspended from the ceiling to studs.
Secure your water heater to the wall with a thick metal strap.
Consult a structural engineer to make sure that your home is bolted to the foundation and that the structure is properly reinforced.
Consult with an engineer on the adequacy of your chimney.
Designate a person outside your area as a message center.
Have a family earthquake plan for clarity on who will pick up the kids, who’s in charge of pets, and where you’ll meet after a quake.
Make sure you have adequate insurance coverage.

Sources: The Federal Emergency Management Agency and the American Red Cross

Mother Nature

If you have lived in Oklahoma for at least a decade, you probably consider yourself somewhat of an expert on severe weather and tornadoes. At the time of this article’s creation in 2016, we are arguably the earthquake capitol of the planet. Now that Oklahoma earthquakes are a thing, we need to become experts on another way Mother Nature lets us know who’s boss.

As spring approaches and we spend more time outside (hopefully!), we need to be on the lookout for changes in our homes that may need to be addressed before they become bigger, more expensive problems.

Here is a list that FEMA has put out of things to check as you move in and around your home.

Check The External House Structure

• Survey all portions of your house to see if any part collapsed or sustained damage.

• See if the house shifted on its foundation, or fell away from the foundation in any place.

• Check to see if the house is noticeably leaning, or looks tilted from a distance.

• Look for severe cracks or openings, especially around outdoor steps or porches.

• If inside the house, check to see if you are experiencing seriously increased vibrations from passing trucks and buses.

• Inspect for cracks in external walls. Check to see if existing cracks in the walls are getting bigger.

• Check to see if mortars are separating from the blocks.

• Look for sink holes or large divots in the ground next to the foundation.

Check The Chimneys

• Look for cracks between the chimney and the exterior wall or the roof.

• Look for cracks in the liner.

• Check to see if there is unexplained debris in the fireplace.

Check Utilities

• Are the power lines to your house are noticeably sagging?

• Is the water heater leaning or tilted?

• Make sure all the water connections, dry-pipes, toilets, faucets are secure.

Check the Inside Of the House

• Check to see if doors and windows are harder to open, and if doors do not shut properly.

• Check to see if the roof is leaking. Look for water damage to the ceiling.

• Check to see if the furnace has shifted in any way, and if ducts and exhaust pipes are connected and undamaged.

• If inside the house, check to see if you are experiencing unexplained draftiness. Look for cracks in the walls, poorly aligned window frames, and loosened exterior siding. They can all let in breezes.

• Check to see if the floor is separated from walls or stairwells inside the house.

• Look for cracks between walls and built-in fixtures such as lights, cupboards or bookcases.

• Look for gaps around plumbing pipes that exit the foundation wall.

Aron Ralston pointed this fact out in his book Between a Rock and a Hard Place years ago. Everything in our environment is moving. Some things move quickly, and some move very slowly, but everything is moving.

The ground beneath us is moving much more quickly these days, so be on the lookout for problems that may compromise your homes well being

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Overhead Garage Door Maintenance

March 1, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance, Spring Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Getting Started

Stand inside the garage and close the garage door. Pay attention to all the various moving parts — springs, rollers and hinges. Note the movement of the door parts and those on the overhead track system, as well as the garage door opening system. Overhead Garage Door Maintenance is going to address all of these moving parts.

First Step

Wipe away cobwebs, dust, grime and buildup on the door hinges, springs and other moving hardware. This can be down with a broom or a specialty tool you can pick up at your neighborhood hardware store. Climb a step stool, if necessary, to wipe away buildup or obstructions on the track system overhead, as well as on the rollers on the garage door track. Avoid ladders since getting too high off the ground will cause disorientation.

Lubrication

Squirt small amounts of silicone spray or a couple of drops of oil into the moving parts on the garage door itself, such as the hinges, roller pin, roller mount brackets, and springs, and cable drums. Open the door halfway and repeat the process. Open and close the door a few times to encourage the oil to lubricate moving areas. Spray additional lubricant if needed. Wipe away lubricant that drips using a clean rag.

Keeping on Track

Place the step stool under one of the tracks if you cannot comfortably reach or see the inner track area overhead. Open the garage door and spray silicone lubricant into the centers of the rollers that ride on the track on each side. Next apply some silicon lubricant to the center “J” track to keep it moving smoothly. Close and open the door several times to allow the lubricant to flow. Wipe away any drips to prevent collections of dirt and dust.

Your garage door should now be ready for many more months of smooth operation!

As with any home maintenance, always think safety. Safety glasses are recommended as well as following safety warnings on step stools and ladders used. Refer to any owners manual you have on your Overhead Garage Door for specific maintenance tips

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Garage Door Maintenance

February 26, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance, Spring Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

The Spring

A common cause of garage door spring failure is rust. A buildup of rust increases coil friction on the moving spring. Combine that with the corrosive damage of the rust itself, and you have everything you need for early torsion spring or extension spring failure. A little garage door maintenance on your part can keep rust at bay and increase the life of your garage door springs. Every three months or so, spray on some silicone based lubricant, or add a few drops light machine oil (10, 20 or 30 weight), or better yet some 3 in 1 oil. This keeps the spring lubricated and prevents harmful rust buildup.

WD-40

You may be thinking why not WD-40? WD-40 is essentially kerosene and a carrier/spray. Nice for cleaning metal, loosening things up, etc., like a penetrating oil, but NO long-term lubricant properties. The “WD” in WD40 stands for “Water Dispersant”, which is what WD-40 primarily is, not a lubricant.

Talking Springs

Did you know that your garage door springs will let you know when they’ve about reached the breaking point? It sounds crazy but it’s true – if you know what to look for. While raising and lowering the door a few times, listen carefully for any squeaking noises. This is the sound of hinges that need to be lubricated. Your garage door hinges will generally need to be lubricated once a year. This is a great preventive maintenance tip to add to your spring cleaning to-do list.

Emergency Release

Part of garage door maintenance is to ensure you can open the door without power to the opener. To test this, with the garage door closed pull the red-handled emergency release cord(its a good practice to check this once a year and make sure other family members know how it operates). This disconnects the door from the opener, allowing you to open your door by hand.

Spring Strength

The next step is to lower your door all the way down, then raise it to about two feet off the ground and let go(making sure the path is clear or items or body parts of course). Good springs will prevent gravity from pulling down the weight of the door. Did your door stay in place with little downward slide? If yes, your springs are still working fine. But if the door feels very heavy and sags, your springs are showing their age and starting to wear. Contact your garage door contractor for a thorough inspection. Remember these springs are dangerous and repairs are best left to the professionals.

A little lubricant will do wonders in keeping the springs operating smoothly

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Overhead Garage Door Opener

February 25, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance, Spring Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Vehicle Door Opener

Remember when you were a kid and you came and went through the front door? Well, times have changed. Now so many of us come and go through the garage thanks to an often forgotten about convenience know as the Overhead Garage Door Opener. Like us, and everything else in your home, it too has a life span(8-12 years).

Components

Your overhead door is comprised of several different components including the motor, torsion or extension springs, rollers, roller brackets, and hinges that work in harmony to provide us access to our abode with a touch of a button. There is a trolley on the garage door opener rail that connects to the garage door itself by way of a “J” bar. It is called a J bar because it looks like the letter “J”. The trolley is pulled along by a chain, screw, or belt that the motor turns and operates. components need regular maintenance to continue operating smoothly.

Contrary to what most people believe, the garage door motor does not lift the heavy garage door. Most of the actual heavy lifting comes from the springs that are connected to the torsion system. The electric power only controls how far and how hard the garage door actually opens and closes.

Wear and Tear

Torsion springs simply wear out over time. How much time? Ten thousand seems to be the magic number – that’s the number of cycles the average spring will last. One cycle equals your garage door being opened and then closed. Going to work in the morning, then home again at night adds up to two cycles a day. That’s not so bad if you’re a bachelor hermit.

On the other hand, if your “significant other” runs errands during the day, if you have teenagers in and out of the garage, or if you have younger kids opening and closing the garage door to get their bikes and sporting equipment – you’re going to burn through ten thousand cycles a lot faster. An active family could easily use up ten thousand cycles in as little as a year.

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Watering Your Homes Foundation

February 10, 2016/0 Comments/in Blog, On-Going Home Maintenance, Winter Home Maintenance/by Scott Price

Earthquakes are not the only source of cracks in your home. They are just the latest threat to your homes foundation. This winter has been pretty dry, so I’ve been out watering around my foundation on a regular basis to stay ahead of the coming spring and summer heat. If foundation concerns are not addressed BEFORE they start, it can cost 10’s of thousands of dollars to repair them. To protect your foundation, you must water your foundation. Even though most sprinkler systems will help, most were designed to spray water away from the house. To complicate it further, many cities are enforcing landscape watering restrictions. Probably the most important factor associated with watering foundations is to do it 12 months a year. It is very import to maintain a constant moisture content to retain soil consistency. Even if you only have minor issues (sticking doors, squeaky floors), managing the porosity of soil will even out the issues for a more stable foundation.

How to Water a Foundation: There are several methods.

Hand Watering: I don’t recommend this method, but it can work. It can be difficult to consistently apply the same amount of water around the entire foundation with a systematic approach.
Soaker Hoses: By far the most popular, “soaker hoses” are easily attached to a water outlet and draped around the foundation of the house. These come in 25 and 50 foot length and can be connected in a series. Try to place them within about 6 inches of the foundation. (TIP: Keep bare landscaped areas covered with mulch. This too will assist in retaining the moisture content around the structure. Covering the soaker hose with the mulch is acceptable. You will need to inspect these regularly as I have found they deteriorate fairly quickly (less than 3-5 years). Additionally, neighboring visitors (rats, mice, raccoons and such) have found a liking to chew on hoses, in turn puncturing them and causing excessive water to come out in one place. Once broken, I have not seen a good way to repair them, so you will have to replace the hose.
Drip Lines: These hoses are designed with drip emitters in the hose every 12 inches. You can deploy them in the same method as mentioned for the soaker hoses, but the hose material is a bit more stiff. Staking them will help as they do not like to lay flat to the ground. You can purchase the hose in bulk from the Orange Box store of Sprinkler Warehouse. You will need to also purchase inter-hose connectors as well as a way to connect to your water source.
Regardless of the method of disbursement, doing it consistently is just as important as the watering itself.Take a look at Watering Your Foundation to see a semi-permanent installation guide to foundation watering.

Source of above material: HomeownerBOB.com

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Electrical Panel Safety

December 29, 2015/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by sherineprice

Electrical Panel Safety

All homeowners should know where their electrical panel is located. When you open the door to it, you should find breakers that are labeled which correspond to the different rooms or areas of the home. Breakers will sometimes trip due to a power surge or outage, and the homeowner can flip the switch to reactivate the current to the particular room or area. Behind the breakers is the dead front, and it is this electrical component that should be removed only by a qualified electrician or inspector.

Before touching the electrical panel to re-set a breaker, ask yourself the following questions:
Do I have an escape path? Make sure that you know where you can safely turn or step if you must escape a dangerous surprise, such a bee or a spark. An unfortunately placed shovel or extension cord, for instance, can turn a quick jerk into a dangerous fall.
Is the floor wet? Never touch any electrical equipment while standing on a wet surface!
Does the panel appear to be wet? Check overhead for dripping water that may have condensed on a cold water pipe.
Is the panel rusty? Rust is an indication of previous wet conditions that may still exist.
Are there scorch marks on the panel door? This can indicate a past or very recent arc, and further investigation should be deferred to a licensed electrician.
Here is a list of defective conditions that a homeowner may see that may be called out during an electrical inspection:
insufficient clearance. According to the 2008 National Electrical Code, most residential electrical panels require at least a 3-foot clearance or working space in front, 30 inches of width, and a minimum headroom clearance of 6 feet, or the height of the equipment, whichever is greater.
sharp-tipped panel box screws. Panel box cover screws must have blunt ends so they do not pierce the wires inside the box.
circuit breakers that are not properly sized.
oxidation or corrosion to any of the parts. Oxidized or corroded wires will increase the resistance of conductors and create the potential for arcing.
damage caused by rodents. Rodents have been known to chew through wire insulation in electrical panels (and other areas), creating an unsafe condition. Rodents have been electrocuted this way, leaving an unsightly mess inside the panel.
evidence of electrical failures, such as burned or overheated components.
evidence of water entry inside the electrical panel. Moisture can corrode circuit breakers so that they won’t trip, make connections less reliable and the equipment unsafe to touch.
a panel manufactured by Zinsco or Federal Pacific Electric (FPE). These panels have a reputation for being problematic, and further evaluation by a qualified electrician is recommended

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at:

Like us on FaceBook

Follow us on Twitter

Follow us on Instagram

Tree Clean Up Safety

December 15, 2015/0 Comments/in Blog, Home Safety, On-Going Home Maintenance/by sherineprice

It’s been about a week now since our most recent ice storm caused so much damage to our tree population. I’ve heard and read about several serious injuries while home owners go about the task of clearing away the damage. On many occasions I’ve driven by someone putting themselves and others at risk.
Often after a big event like an ice-storm, professionals are too booked up or out of reach price-wise, so you can save you and your family a lot of money and heartache by doing a little homework before tackling a job best left to professionals.
Remember, the two leading causes of death while tree trimming are falls from heights and electrocution, so extra training is needed before working at heights or near power lines.
Remember these 7 tips before you trim your trees:
1. Wear the right PPE (personal protective equipment).
Protect your hands with leather lineman’s gloves. For electrical work, wear close-fitting, long sleeved clothing and a non-conductive hard hat. Tree trimming operations can expose your eyes to dust, wood particles, insects, and pine needles, so be sure to wear comfortable eye protection. When operating a trimmer or chainsaw, you’ll also need ear protection. Wear shoes with heel and slip-resistant soles. Use chaps and gauntlets during chainsaw operations.
2. Every job is different – do a pre-work assessment.
Each tree and job may require a different strategy and a different set of gear. If you use a ladder, tie it off on a secure branch. For higher climbs, you may need a fall protection harness, climbing rope, or an aerial lift. Inspect ropes, harnesses, and latches before and after each use. You’ll also need to conduct an inspection for hazards like broken limbs and electrical lines before you start work. Inspect and sharpen any tools to make sure they operate efficiently and safely.
3. Protect passersby and co-workers.
Mark off your work area around the tree to protect passersby and co-workers. If you are working on a tree that extends near or over a road, wear high visibility clothing. Take into consideration the speed limit of that road and its shoulder width to determine what cones and signs are needed.
4. Work with a partner.
It’s always a good idea to work with another person who stays on the ground while you’re climbing. In the event of an emergency, both you and your partner should have training in CPR and first-aid.
5. Don’t use conductive tools near power lines.
This includes ladders, pole trimmers, or other tools that can conduct electricity if they come into contact with overhead power lines or electrical conductors. Even downed power lines can still contain energy which can gravely injure or kill you. To be safe, treat all power lines as if they are energized, until you confirm that they are not.
6. Follow minimum working distances from powered lines.
Don’t get close unless absolutely necessary. Don’t de-energize any power lines unless you are trained, qualified, and authorized to do so. If your job requires you to get close to energized power lines, contact the utility company to de-energize the lines or request that the lines be covered with insulating hoses or blankets before you proceed with your work.
7. Inspect trees and limbs for cracks and weakness before you climb.
Break or cut off dead limbs as you climb. Never use dead, weak, or split branches for support. Place your feet and hands on separate limbs as you climb and only move one step at a time. While climbing, always work with another person who stays on the ground. If the tree is unsafe to climb, an aerial lift may be necessary. Always get training before operating or using an aerial lift.

referenced: Safety Smart

Home Run Inspections, LLC

Oklahoma: 405-905-9175

Florida: 850-203-3239

We Cover All the Bases!

Serving the Oklahoma City metro and surrounding areas including Edmond, Yukon, Piedmont, Bethany, El Reno, Tuttle, Mustang, Moore, Norman, Midwest City, Del City, Choctaw, McCloud, Shawnee, Harrah, Newalla, Jones, and more.

Also Now Serving the Florida Panhandle metro areas including Destin, Fort Walton Beach, Okaloosa Island, Miramar Beach, Santa Rosa Beach, Niceville, Shalimar, Freeport, Crestview, DeFuniak Springs, Panama City Beach, and more.

Schedule Your Inspections Online at: